The sharper edge to traveling in Asia

Bachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on class distinctions and discrimination imposed by Thai upper class young adults

Written By: herbrunbridge - Aug• 01•10

A lot of guys have asked me what the difference is between the good girls in Thailand and the “entertainment providers.”  I think I covered this pretty thoroughly in a previous column.  Lately I am being asked more and more about the class differences in the gals.  What is the difference between a low class Isaan farmer’s daughter, a middle class gal who graduated University and is working in an office in Bangkok, and a high class gal prancing around the Siam Paragon shopping center?  

Previously I suggested that I break them up using my 10/80/10 rule. This simply means that 10% of the gals are so poor that they are forced by their families to do whatever it takes to bring in money. No problem here, the gals from this group make excellent bargirls. Another 10% are so rich that they are living a life of leisure and privilege.  Lastly, 80% fall somewhere in between these 2 extremes, and this is where you guys will find the best gals.  Gals who want a good man, don’t work in the bar scene, but aren’t so spoiled that they expect you to give them the sun, moon and stars! Well Khun Lee is here to entertain you with a story from my ventures into the “rich gal” arena.  Yes, even I can be accused of questionable judgment at times. 

Her name was Jintaree, and she was the daughter of the woman who owned my apartment building.  Her parents were filthy rich, owned more than 80 buildings in Bangkok and many other companies as well.  Jintaree graduated from Chulalongkorn University (a top one in Bangkok) and was 24 years old, tall, slim, white skin and a face that was too beautiful for words.  We met at a book signing in Silom and it was quite amusing when I told her where I lived and she responded that her family owned my building!  Well, rules are made to be broken (a convenient excuse for the fact that when I stared at her perfect face my knees buckled and I conveniently forgot my 10/80/10 rule) so I invited her to dinner for the coming weekend.  

We ended up going out with 3 other couples, and it was obvious everyone came from money.  One guy was no more than 22 but was driving a top end Mercedes Benz and all the others sported attitudes of wealth and privilege. Dinner was at a nice Chinese restaurant in Chinatown, and I have to say the food was great and the service superb.  I chatted with everyone in the group in both English and Thai, and eventually ended up conversing with the waiter.  He spoke English, Mandarin and Thai and was an exceptionally bright young fellow. He was working there to put himself through graduate school in Engineering.  I have to admit it was refreshing to talk with a bright, ambitious young man after the boring conversations with her pretentious friends.  

When dinner was finished, we boarded a taxi to take Jintaree home, and it was obvious she was not happy with me. After the obligatory 7 tries at “what’s wrong” she finally launched into a 5 minute harangue about how much I had embarrassed her in front of her friends by talking to that “low class” waiter.  I was forced to tell the truth, that the waiter was by far the most intelligent person in the room, and if she could drop her pretentious ways for a moment she may have learned something from him.  She responded by telling me that only a low class guy would chat with the waiter, and that I had embarrassed her immensely.  My response was that in my opinion, the definition of a low class gal was one who told her date who he could talk to!  NO MORE rich gals for this guy. 

My best quote of the week came when I was walking down Sukumvit Road with a Thai lady friend and a 300 pound western lady grazed by.  I told my friend “half an Isaan village could cool itself in the shadow cast off by her enormous body.” 

I was talking with a very savvy local friend I will call Rob, and the subject of money and gals eventually came up.  I have to say that Rob and I very rarely agree on much of anything.  Perhaps it is because I am American, and Rob is from Ecuador.  Regardless, I value his opinion and am always pleased to disagree with him.  Surprisingly, he totally agreed with me on one very important point.  The more money you give to or spend on a Thai girl, the worse they treat you and the less they respect you.  Perhaps it is because women are naturally contrarian.  Perhaps it is because they can sense that guys who give too much are generally attempting to make up for a lack of self-esteem.  I don’t know the exact reason for this phenomenon, but one thing I see time and time again is guys who are smart with their money have great gals who treat them with respect, and guys who are stupid with their money get walked over like a doormat. This hold true in both committed relationships and short time affairs with entertainment providers. 

I have been known to be somewhat critical of western women.  Well, I can testify to the fact that there are a few cool ones out there.  Last week I was enjoying a beer in one of my favorite go-go bars (Angel Witch Bangkok) and next to me was seated a nice looking western couple.  We struck up a conversation and the wife (who was from Switzerland) asked me if I went there often.  I responded that I practically lived there!  I somewhat expected her to give me the old feminazi line about how horrible it all is, what “victims” the gals are etc. etc.  To my shock and amazement her response was “this place is GREAT! If I were a man, I would come here every day!!”

Read Khun Lee’s other WoWasis columns for more advice on navigating the adult dating scene through the backstreets of Bangkok

Bachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on important rules for first dates in Thailand

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 17•10

Man do I love Thailand!!  This one is for you, WoWasis.  I was getting a massage the other day at a rather out of the way place near Bangkapi (northeast Bangkok) and it was becoming obvious to me that they were not accustomed to having western customers.  I must admit I was more than a little embarrassed at all the attention I was getting, and believe me when I say that I am not easily embarrassed! The lady performing my massage was so beautiful that she would stop traffic in any other country, and I must admit nearly all of the other staff was quite pleasing to the eye as well. They were all flirting devilishly with me, and my particular gal was pulling out all the stops including “flashing” with her eyes. “Flashing” is a technique used by Thai gals where they tilt their head at a certain angle and allow the light to reflect off of their eyes and back at the subject person. It can be quite spellbinding when performed correctly. 

Anyway, when the massage was finished and I was paying the bill, the manager asked me if I wanted to come back to the shop soon and ask my masseuse to marry me. Well, I began backpedaling very fast with my most advanced Thai techniques that are used to neutralize confrontations, as this boy has been married before and will NEVER live in that earth bound hell again.  Then I glanced back at my gal, and her precocious smile had been replaced with a frown.  She hung her head in dismay and said “I can’t even dream that big.”  Just broke my stone cold heart.  

The irony is that if I had never discovered Thailand, that particular proposition might have sounded REALLY good to me. 

Speaking of living in Paradise and being surrounded by WAY too many beautiful, sexy, available women, a friend asked me the other day why I never seem to encounter the same problems with Thai women that so many other western guys seem to.  After reflecting on this for a moment, I responded that on the first date I lay down the ground rules on how I expect to be treated.  It would seem a bit rude to aggressively explain rules when only on a first date, so this is how I accomplish this:  On every first date there inevitably comes a time where the gal starts to ask me probing questions about my background.  The most common is “oh, you are so handsome, so perfect, why don’t you have a girlfriend already?”  Let me state right here that I am not handsome or perfect, it is only that Thai ladies have very sweet tongues!  Anyway, this is where I seize the opportunity to subtly (or perhaps not so subtly) explain to them exactly what I will not tolerate from a woman under any circumstances.  

The two problems I ran into most often when first in Bangkok (we all have to learn the hard way) were women that were overly possessive and controlling, and women who were only out for money.  Therefore, when that first probing question comes, my response is that I don’t have a girlfriend at the moment because I have met so many women that either:

1) Ask me for money    OR
2) Call me 100 times a day and try to control me 

The lady will typically respond that she would NEVER do that and any woman who would is not a real traditional Thai lady.  The important thing is that I have sent a message.  If she wants money or a lap dog, she doesn’t need to go out on a second date with me.  I find that this really filters out the bad one’s right up front.  The other technique I use is what I call the “one strike and you’re out” rule.  No one is perfect, but if a lady commits a MAJOR infraction anytime early in the relationship, I simply delete her number from my phone and cut her loose. A major infraction would be anything that shows me she is a user, is extremely impolite, or will just need too much attention.  Asking me for money is the kiss of death.  

Another big problem is the constant sms messages and phone calls.  Once or twice a day is certainly often enough to contact one another.  I had one gal that after the third date, I woke up the next morning and had 37 missed phone calls from her! Yes, I RAN away from that one!  You guys out there will most likely have a different list of unforgivable offenses than I do, just remember to find a direct but non-confrontational way of letting the gals know how you expect to be treated.  They will respect you for it and you will cut down on ninety percent of the problems that crop up in relationships.  Sorry, I don’t think anyone has ever found a way to side step one hundred percent of the landmines! 

I had a really interesting conversation with a friend at Angel Witch in Nana Entertainment Plaza the other day. It went something like this:

John:  “All these bargirls care about is money.”
Me: “Well, they are working. What did you expect?”
John: “And when you get to know them they all have low class Thai boyfriends who have no job and no money.”
Me: “I thought you just said that ALL they care about is money? Now you are saying that they choose boyfriends who have NO money. Which one is it?”
John: “Um,……um”
Me: “I think what you are trying to say is that when they are at work, they only care about money, but in their personal lives they choose to be with someone that they are comfortable with regardless of money.”John: “Yeah, I guess that’s right.”
Me: “Well when I work I concentrate on making as much money as possible, but when I am off from work I choose to be with people I like regardless of money.  So I guess they are just like me!!”
John: “Geez, they ARE just like us!”
Me: “They’re just like us.”

Read Khun Lee’s other WoWasis columns for more advice on navigating the adult dating scene through the backstreets of Bangkok

The Good Manner: Fat old man can’t get a date in Thailand

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 15•10

The Good Manner: Love & Relationship Advice from WoWasis’ Pa Farang
This week’s dilemma: Fat old man can’t get a date in Thailand

Dear Pa Farang, 

This is a letter of frustration. I’m in my mid-50’s, and have been to Thailand several times.  I originally came here for good scuba, and kept coming back because of the friendly people. I confess, I’ve met lots of women, usually in nightspots frequented by other western men. My problem is that I can’t seem to make a meaningful connection beyond the usual one-nighters. Confession time: I’m not the best looking guy in the world, and I’m overweight. I’m older, too.  That’s the other reason I’m here.  Back at home, no woman will give me the time of day, in spite of the fact that I’m a good guy, honest, and university-educated. Here, I don’t have problems meeting girls, but after a date or so, it seems as though they’re only after my money.  The girls I’m attracted to are in their twenties, so who knows?  Maybe I’m just an old bastard dreamin’ like Captain Ahab.  Still, I see other guys my age who obviously have tight relationships.  They might be lucky, but my parents taught me that luck is what you make it.  I’m starting to think I’m spending too much time trying to meet girls in bars. OK, Pa Farang, here’s the bit: where can a guy like me go to meet good, decent, honest women in this town? 

– Sailor Stephen 

Dear Sailor, 

Take out your spyglass and look around you: how many overweight, scruffy western guys do you see getting lovey-dovey with their twenty-something Thai girlfriends?  It’s in the hundreds, maybe thousands, isn’t it.  And take it from Pa Farang, they didn’t meet their girlfriends at the bookstore at Chulalongkorn University [note to self, check out the bookstore at Chulalongkorn].  Fact is, they met them in bars.  I see your dilemma as having three sides, your low self-esteem, bodywise, your low self-esteem agewise, and picking the wrong girls. Work on the first two items while meditating in the crow’s nest one day.  

Thai girls, unlike western women, care more about what’s in your heart than your age, or  girth. Since respecting older people is a venerated element of merit-making in the Buddhist philosophy, you’ll be well-regarded as an older guy, potentially  an uncle, a lover, and a protector. Thai women have built-in sonar, radar, and loran, and can size a guy up by looking at him, and forming a judgement on character within the first 30 seconds.  This is especially true in bars.  The problem is, Sailor, you aren’t noticing.  If I could drive my submarine up to the beachhead of your favorite bar, and angle my periscope so that it would part the curtains a bit, I’d find you ignoring the girl in back smiling toward you, while you’re busy chatting up the prettier girl filing her nails and ordering her third ladydrink from you.  The basic concept here is that the Thai girl chooses you, not the other way around.  I’ll bet you’re ignoring that fact, habitually, and picking girls who have no interest in you beyond the financial. 

Try this: next time you walk through the pearly gates of your favorite pleasure palace, stop for a second.  Look around, find the one who’s against the far wall, smiling at you.  Sure, she may not be the prettiest, at first glance.  Sure you’re older than her, but remember this: you’ve got thirty years of wisdom that a 25-year-old doesn’t have.  Prove it by showing The Good Manner when you first meet her.  Ask where she’s from, and pull out your map of Thailand and ask her to show you her city, town, or village.  You’ll be showing an interest in her than 19 out of 20 western guys won’t.  This is your chart for  finding the girlfriend you’ve been lacking. I’m on your side, Sailor, but methinks you’ve been thinking of your own woes too much. When you stow ‘em in a lead sack and jettison them overboard, you’ll finally find yourself sailing the blues seas of tranquility, with a good-hearted lady at your side. Trust an old salt on this one. 

Mariyat-dee, 

Pa Farang

 Read Pa Farang’s other columns for more advice on relationships in Southeast Asia

Thai toilet hose-California Gold Rush link astounds scholars

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 12•10

The busininess end of a massive monitor hydraulic hose, purportedly the model for the Thai toilet hose

A culturally significant and historically important discovery has been reported that links the invention of the ubiquitous toilet hose found in the restrooms of Thailand to the powerful “monitor’ hoses that decimated California hillsides during the 19th century California gold rush.

Scholars from Bangkok’s Ramkhamhaeng University told WoWasis that archaeologists documenting the discovery of a small camp inhabited by Thai mining workers near Malakoff Diggins State Historical Park in California have unearthed what are apparently the first toilet hoses used by Thais anywhere in the world. While these archaeologists spoke to us under guarantee of anonymity, they did shows us pictures of these primitive toilet hoses, which look similar to the giant monitor hoses of the gold rush era.“They worked on gravity feed, just like the monitors, and diverted water from the same penstocks,” said one researcher. A governing valve found in a camp midden provided the key. “Without this valve, the water pressure would have blown the unfortunate victim sky high, right off the toilet,” claimed one archaeologist. Imported Thai workers of the era were known to abhor the use of paper — generally in the form of product catalogues — as well as corncobs to clean themselves. If this latest finding rings true, then an as yet unidentified Thai national evidently used the hydraulic technology used to wash gold into sluices to fashion a method of cleaning himself when using the outhouse, utilizing water in the same way toilet hoses are used all over Thailand today.

The Thai camp on the Malakoff site, which also includes cooking utensils, bottles, and letters, is adjacent to a documented camp housing Chinese workers of the era, and appears to be the first indicator of a Thai presence in California’s gold country. The Thai archaeologists are temporarily holding their discovery under the vest, as they consider the prototype toilet hose to be an artifact that belongs in a Thai, rather than western museum. Sensitive discussions are being held with California authorities over the ultimate display location of the toilet hose, as well as the letters.

ThailandPromoBannerThe letters, which are still to a large degree legible, would appear to have been in the collection of a female Thai domestic worker. One such letter from the year 1883 looks to  be a copy of a letter sent to a local non-Thai miner, written in English. “Have big problem,” one letter begins, “water buffalo sick and need gold too much to send home, papa cannot work rice farm if no buffalo. Two bag gold not too much for you. If you do for me, I love you long time.” Signed with the simple name “Lek,” this letter, scholars now posit, may be the historically earliest reference of interactions between Thai women and North American men in existence.

The discovery and documentation of the toilet hose prototype and “Lek Letters” is, for the time being, a political hot potato that is being kept away from the international press. We suspect that this significant story of early Thai-American relations in the goldfields of California is a story too compelling to remain hidden for long.the-bum-gun-bidet-sprayers

Bachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on the perils of sponsoring a Thai bargirl

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 11•10

I always find it interesting just how different Thai culture is from our Western culture. Most people can see the obvious differences such as language, food and customs.  However, after living in Thailand 6 years I find it remarkable how Thai people can look at even the most insignificant event from a totally different perspective.  For instance, I was watching a football match with 2 Thai friends and I commented on how much better one team was than the other team.  My friends both commented that the losing team was just UNLUCKY that day!

Another example involves a conversation I had with a bargirl the other day.  She was paralyzed with fear because a friend called and said that the gal’s sister had learned that she was working in a farang bar and was actually on her way to witness it for herself, in order to report back to their parents.  I asked if her parents would be angry upon learning that she was working in a bar and being barfined and taken home by customers.  Her reply was “they won’t care about that, but they will be really angry to learn that I drink alcohol.” 

Gentleman of the Week award goes to a fine man I met at a Nana go-go bar. I was quietly having a drink and watching the lovelies dance when I happened to notice a lady sitting at the table next to mine who looked awfully familiar. After a few moments I realized it was a gal I had met 4 years earlier when she worked as a dancer in that very bar.  I remember it was her 3rd day of work and I had barfined her and we spent some quality time together.  In the morning she had told me that she didn’t like working in the bar and planned to quit and never go back. Well, I must say she was telling the truth because in the past 4 years I have never seen her again-until this week.  However, as she was with a gentleman I did not approach her.  I only glanced over and gave her a smile. 

Much to my surprise, they soon paid their bill and on the way out of the bar they stopped to talk. He and I had a very nice talk about many things including currency exchange rates (I am a bit of a finance nerd) as well as the overall state of the world.  Then he hands me a piece of paper with a phone number on it and says “You seem like a really good guy. I have been taking care of Lek 4 years now but I live in Europe and only make it to Bangkok 3 or 4 times a year. I know she needs companionship while I am gone, and I would rather she go out with you than the other guys I run into here, so here’s her number.”  Wow!! This guy really “get’s it.” Not only does he realize that since he doesn’t live here full time she can’t dedicate herself to only him, but on top of that he genuinely cares about her. After mocking all the “sponsors” who naively send money to their Thai bargirls from farangland, it was a breath of fresh air to meet this guy.  Cheers!! 

I was at my favorite internet café the other day and ran into one of my all time favorite Thai gals.  She is really full of life and has a great sense of humor.  She also speaks English really well, so needless to say has many admirers.  I asked her where she was living these days, and she told me this story.  “I have been living in a really nice apartment near Emporium Shopping Center that costs 40,000 ($1,233 USD) baht per month.  My English boyfriend pays for it as well as giving me another 60,000 ($1,850 USD) baht per month spending money.  Last month he left the apartment to go to the airport, as he had a business meeting in Japan.  Just an hour later he returned to the apartment unannounced (guess his meeting was cancelled) and found me sitting on the sofa with my Thai boyfriend.  He yelled and screamed and threw things and then ran out the apartment.  My Thai boyfriend is really cool and said and did nothing. I knew if I called him that he would just be angry and accuse me of cheating on him.  So instead, I turned off my phone and stayed with my friend Won for 3 days.  The 4th day I turned my phone on and my English boyfriend called within 5 minutes.  He was crying and said he had been calling me every 5 minutes for 3 days and he wanted to kill himself because I loved another man. Well I know in Farang countries everything is always the man’s fault, no matter what.  So I told him that I was angry with him and wanted to end the relationship.  I told him that my Thai boyfriend was really a customer and that I had been forced to go with customers for money because the 60,000 baht per month he gave me just wasn’t enough to live on…” 

I told her that was a very creative answer, and I wanted to know how it all ended up? This was her response. “I got a 40,000 baht raise out of it.”  Any additional comment would be superfluous. 

I know I am really spoiled living here in Paradise.  Sometimes I almost feel guilty about what a charmed life I lead.  This week I had a very interesting conversation with the Thai guy who is the maintenance engineer in my building.  He told me he was from Korat, and that he and his wife had moved to Bangkok in order to work hard and save enough money to return home and build a small house. His goal is to save 200,000 baht, which is enough to build the home they want in their village. However, as things are so expensive in Bangkok, both he and his wife have been working 2 jobs day and night, but in 4 years have only managed to save a small percentage of what is needed.  I must say I felt more than a little guilty knowing that his lifetime savings goal is equivalent to what I have blown on booze and women in the past 6 months!  I believe it was Football legend George Best who said “I spent a million pounds on booze and women, but I spent the rest foolishly.”

Read Khun Lee’s other WoWasis columns for more advice on navigating the adult dating scene through the backstreets of Bangkok

WoWasis Book review: Perfect Spy, the Life of Pham Xuan An

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 08•10

Perhaps the most apt introduction WoWasis found to the amazing world of North Vietnam’s super spy Pham Xuan An was discovered during a tour we took of the Cu Chi war tunnels, just outside of Saigon. Our tour guide was Binh Le Thai, a member of the Viet Cong who worked for American interests while he was serving the opposition. “Americans are very stupid,” said Mr. Binh, “our tunnels went into the military base, and the Army commander’s Vietnamese girlfriend was Viet Cong who told us everything. But if you don’t like Americans, I kill you.” This apparent dichotomy, loving American as individuals while fighting against them, was the basis for the working world of Pham Xuan An. 

Author Larry Berman’s Perfect Spy: The Incredible Double Life of Pham Xuan An, Time Magazine Reporter and Vietnamese Communist Agent (2007, ISBN 978-0-06-088838-1) details the life of Pham, who studied in the U.S. and was nominally a reporter for Time magazine during the Vietnam war years. Berman knew Pham, interviewed him countless times, and discussed his actions with friend and foe. The book is an outstanding chronicle of a little-known but fascinating aspect of the war, and underscores the fact that in Asia, very little is black and white, but instead exists in a world of many hues of gray. Pham saw himself as a freedom fighter, tempered with personal loyalty to his American friends. As the book reveals, on more than one occasion he saved American friends from almost certain death at the hands of his countrymen, and considered himself a man of honor thrown into a difficult situation. Some of his American colleagues are not so generous, feeling Pham sold them out. Others share an opposite opinion. 

Pham Xuan An’s story is a fascinating one, important reading for anyone interested in learning what went on behind the scenes in terms of reporting the war, North and South Vietnamese war politics, and the interactions of individuals on both sides of the conflict. An, who died in 2006, would we think, have enjoyed the book. His story is not unique: anyone today making friends in Vietnam will invariably encounter people like Mr. Binh who represented both sides during the war, and they’re happy to tell their stories to those who would listen with an open mind. For those who haven’t had that opportunity, Berman’s book is a start. Buy it now at the WoWasis estore, powered by Amazon.

The Good Manner: Tickling games curb the passion in relationships

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 08•10

The Good Manner: Love & Relationship Advice from WoWasis’ Pa Farang
This week’s dilemma:
Are tickling games curbing the passion in my relationship? 

Dear Pa Farang, 

My girlfriend Chalalai and I started as mad, passionate lovers. In fact, we would often spend two or three days in amorous hideaways, refusing to answer doorbells, telephone calls, angry knocks on the wall from the neighbors. We were, I admit, insufferable, but in love. Gradually, we became good friends as well. The playful side of each of us became apparent. Each evening after dinner, we’d playing “jahkajee” tickling games, where I’d chase her around the house, knocking over the occasional vase or umbrella stand, until I’d catch her, then throw her on the bed.  Exhausted, we’d fall asleep in each other’s arms. When it came to making love, that was another story.  My touch meant nothing to Chalalai anymore. It was as though her skin was devoid of feeling. Yes, she’d make love, but she’d “starfish” on me, and refuse to return my embrace. Our happy home has now chilled, and I’m beside my self with grief. We still play jahkajee, but it is now our only joy.  Pa Farang, is this emotional distance a normal condition brought on by the familiarity of living together?  Give me some advice here: how can we return to the happy days of the past? 

–          Tickled Pink 

Dear TP, 

Longtime readers of this column are well aware of the perils of “jahkajee” tickling games. Like alcohol, drugs, or television, it at first appears to be fun. Shortly thereafter, you need to have it every day.  The end is not pretty, and results in physical, emotional, and sometimes moral diminution.  You’re clearly at that point now. Yes, TP, I think you can recover, re-sharpen your lance, and return to battle.  First of all, recognize jahkajee as your foe.  Once a Thai girl gets tickled, her skin becomes impervious to the romantic touch.  This impermeable state lasts hours, not minutes. After jahkajee, every touch of love, however tender, may result in peals of laughter, or a sort of shivering, as the cutaneous layers of skin anticipate attack from every direction.  Her skin, conditioned to jahkajee, will thusly reject all gestures of affection.  Sexual activity is out of the question.  By forcing yourself on her, you reject The Good Manner.  Your solution comes in pairs: stop jahkajee immediately, and discuss with her matter-of-factly its perils.  Enlist her assistance.  Do not expect a “quick-fix”, but gradually withdraw your strong desire for jahkajee.  Develop other interests that involve her as well.  When you have successfully jettisoned the scourge of jahkajee, I predict your lady will again be open to pleasures of another kind. 

– Pa Farang 
Read Pa Farang’s other columns for more advice on relationships in Southeast Asia

WoWasis visits the temples of Myauk U, Burma

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 07•10

Buddha images dot the landscape at Myauk U, Burma

WoWasis visitors to Burma will love Myauk U (also known as Mrauk U), an enchanting hill area dotted with dozens of temples. Myauk U is off the beaten track, but the intrepid traveler will be richly rewarded for taking a few hours of travel time to see one of Southeast Asia’s unspoiled archaeological zones.  On the way to Myauk U, you’ll travel through Sittwe, a working Burmese town with beautiful colonial buildings and a wonderful sea point on the Bay of Bengal. 

Myauk U sits 72 km from the coast, up the Aungdat tributary of the Kaladan River.  The city was was founded in 1433 ACE, and its dynasty, founded by King Minzawmun, lasted over 350 years.  At its height (ca. 1540), Myauk U commanded a fleet of 10,000 ships, patrolling the Bay of Bengal.  In 1826, following the Anglo-Burmese war, Britain made Sittwe the administrative headquarters in the area, dramatically lessening the political and commercial future of the city, which was soon virtually abandoned.  

Unlike the vast expanse of Bagan, Myauk U’s temples are confined to a small, hilly area, walkable, although you’ll want to consider hiring a pony carriage during the heat. 

Top 6 highlights at Myauk U 

Many temples offer much to offer, and the following are among the dozens of our favorites: 

1)  Shittaung is an extensive and well-preserved complex, named “Shrine of the 80,000 images.”  Its interior passages are maze-like, and filled with niches and statues. 

2)  Andaw Paya is an eight-sided temple containing sixteen stupas, and numerous niches with Buddha images in the interior. 

3)  Dukkanthein is famous for the exceptional high-relief sandstone carvings, including 64 depicting the hairstyles worn by the consorts of Myauk U nobles. 

4)  Kotaung Temple boasts a five-ranked terrace of Buddha images, along with a wonderful series of open passages with finely-carved bas-reliefs. 

5)  Mahabodhi Shwegu, with its eight-sided bell, rests serenely against a small hill, lush with vegetation. 

6)      Known as the “Plate Pagoda,” Laungbanpyauk Paya’s walls are covered with geometric ceramic designs.  The encroachment of vegetal life has added to the beauty of this temple’s walls, built in 1525. 

Hotels 

There are a few, but we enjoyed the Visali Resort Hotel, which sports very pretty bungalows surrounded by a well-kept garden.  Hot water, nice breakfast (included) and $35 a night.
Telephone in Rangoon: 01-525-609     Fax: 01-526-325  email myathiri@mptmail.net.mm 

Restaurants 

Again, there are a few, but we loved the easy ambiance at Moe Cherry Restaurant (ask anyone where it is).  Dinner is served from 7 – 11 pm, the beer is cold, and they’ll pack a lunch for your walk around the temples the next day if you ask them.  The restaurant is named for the proprietress, who was called “mon cherie” by her husband, but spelled it differently.  They’re nice folks, and you can also ride on their boat back down to Sittwe (ask for schedule at the restaurant).  

Getting to Myauk U requires a nine-hour voyage upriver from Sittwe.  You can take a ferry (roughly $10, one way) or privately charter a small boat through your hotel for roughly $65, which entitles you to two nights in Myauk U, and return trip.  Theoretically, it’s then your boat (you’re promised that), but don’t be surprised if the skipper adds another passenger or two, charging them the same price.  Be sure to read our warning about a tourist ripoff in Sittwe that involves boats to Myauk U.  

There is also a once-weekly express boat from Sittwe that whisks you to Myauk U every Sunday at 7am for $25 (one way), then makes the trip back the following morning at 7 am.

WoWasis visits the lovely town of Sittwe, Burma, on the Bay of Bengal

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jul• 07•10

Collecting water at a village well in Sittwe, Burma

WoWasis visitors will love Sittwe, a pleasant but simple Burmese seaside town, with lovely traditional buildings sporting a rustic charm.  Sitting at the opening of the Kaladan River to the Bay of Bengal, this trading town is the gateway the old temple city of Myauk U, a day’s boat ride up the Aungdat tributary of the Kaladan.  

Walking around Sittwe presents the visitor with an opportunity of having an authentic  “non-touristy” experience.  In the market, you won’t run into many other Westerners, but here you can buy a longhi (wraparound, worn both by men and women) where they’ll let you try it on and admire yourself in the mirror before you buy, in the unhurried traditional Burmese manner. Do not fail to see “The Point,” where the Kaladan meets the Bay of Bengal. 

At night, look for vendors selling peanut brittle made on the spot.  For a few kyat, they’ll sell you more than you can eat, so avoid filling up on dessert and allow room for this marvelous treat. 

Highlights 

Walking the back streets, you’ll see lovely wooden traditional houses, some kept up, some in a state of disrepair.  Back streets are dirt, and you’ll see daily Burmese life: children walking to school, someone bathing from a large bowl of water, another reading a newspaper on a landing.  There’s a wonderful old masonry mosque on a side street 700 meters south of the clock tower, usually with children playing outside, and a friendly imam who’s happy to invite you inside. 

At various places in town, you’ll encounter children going to the neighborhood well to draw water in tin pots, imported from India, which they carry on their heads. 

The Central Market is slapdash-full of anything made of wicker, iron, brass, wood, or cloth that a proper family in Sittwe would need.  It makes a pleasant walk. 

The Point, a few kilometers south of town, is where the Kaladan River meets the Bay of Bengal,  a breezy, refreshing place to grab a bite to eat, take pictures (a 200 kyat charge), and enjoy the sunset.  We consider it the chief highlight of Sittwe.  If you take a trishaw here, be sure you pay enough to ask him to wait for you, if you plan on seeing the sunset.  It’s a dicey walk back if the night is moonless. 

Restaurants 

There are many to choose from, but we particularly liked the City Point Restaurant (Innpaukwa Restaurant), lit up by fairy lights at night.  The wooden architecture is lovely, but get there before 10 pm, when the disco begins.  You’ll find it on Strand Road, a block or so southeast of the Post Office. 

Hotels 

Hands down, the best place to stay in Sittwe is the new, clean, and air-con Noble Hotel.  This six story hotel charges $20 per night, and it’s right in the middle of town. Management and staff are friendly and accommodating.

Noble Hotel
No. 45, Main Road
Tel: 095-43-23558   Fax: 095-43-23559

Read about one hotel tourist rip-off to avoid in Sittwe 

Getting to Sittwe is best done by air, and both Yangon Airways and Air Mandalay fly there from Rangoon, for a fare of roughly $130 USD. 

The road from Rangoon to Sittwe takes roughly 40 hours, but tourists must have special permission from the Burmese government to make the trip.

A hotel tourist rip-off to avoid in Sittwe, Burma

Written By: admin - Jul• 07•10

Sunset on the Bay of Bengal, near Sittwe, Burma

We here at WoWasis had some major issues with the Prince Hotel, in the town of Sittwe, Burma, which advertises air con rooms (which don’t have working air con), prophylactic-filled landings, and a shell-game run in conjunction with shady boat operators, plying their trade to the historic Myauk U site nearby. The hotel had arranged for us to charter our own private boat for $65, which would take the two of us to Myauk U. This is standard practice for two people, and many boats daily charge this flat fee per small party. 

Before leaving the jetty, the captain brought a third Westerner on board, who he was charging an additional $35 for one-way fare.  This was worth discussing, as our agreement meant that he could add others as well.  We then renegotiated the whole thing, and our passenger instead ended up sharing the $65 fare with us.  The captain evidenced such a foul mood to Myauk U, that we elected to take the Moe Cherry boat back to Sittwe for $10, rather than travel with him again.  Upon our return, our trishaw driver at the dock was forced by a Prince Hotel employee to return to the Prince Hotel, where they tried to get an extra $10 from us, saying the boat was discounted because we were staying there (we’d checked out the night before, due to the lack of advertised aircon, mosquitoes, heat, and noise emanating from the rooms of hourly customers). 

We simply said no, enough is enough, paid our trishaw driver, and hired another to take us to our new hotel.