The sharper edge to traveling in Asia

Bachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on bar survival during Bangkok’s low season

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 26•10

Just returned from an 18 day trip to America and what a shock to my system! Thailand and America are on opposite sides of the planet and I don’t think they could be any more different. How strange to experience culture shock when returning to one’s own home country. I am so spoiled living in the paradise that is Bangkok that I am certain I could never live in America again. Even surviving 18 days was quite a challenge. 

I have a friend there who is my age, makes huge money as V.P. of a large international company and would certainly be a dream man for any woman in Thailand. He is recently divorced and has been attempting to date around again. He managed to meet a woman over the internet that lives near his hometown and they have seen each other 5 or 6 times. She is 44 years old, has 4 young children, and is so ugly that when he showed me her photo I lost my desire for sex for a week! My friend thinks he better hurry up and marry her before she gets away. Man did I miss Thailand. 

Had dinner at my favorite Thai restaurant in my hometown and was having a conversation with the Thai female bartender. She asked me about my stay in Thailand and I commented that Thais were so friendly and amiable, but that the Thais in America just didn’t have the same charm and friendliness as the Thais in Thailand. She looked at me, clenched her fists and gritted her teeth, and said “so much pressure here.”  Man did I miss Thailand. 

The culture shock began as soon as the Thai flight attendants departed the plane in Tokyo and were replaced by American flight attendants. The Thai flight attendants were all petite, demure and lovely. The American replacements were all fat, impolite and foul tempered. The 80 year old man sitting next to me made the mistake of asking one for a pillow and she barked “there was one on your seat when you sat down.” Then she reached into the overhead bin, grabbed a pillow and THREW it into his lap. Man I was missing Thailand already. Can we just turn the plane around? 

Enough of this talk about America. I am starting to get depressed just recalling the horror! I have returned to Bangkok in the midst of low season for the nightlife and amazingly find myself more handsome than ever in spite of the fact that I gained 9 pounds during my 18 day trip. How can this be you may be wondering?  Low season is heaven for the customers and it can be quite challenging coping with the absolute movie star status we have at the moment. 

You will be absolutely mobbed by hundreds of beautiful young women in the bars trying to talk to you, sit with you, drink with you, flirt with you and many will even use unfair tactics way too kinky for my sensitive reader’s ears to garner your attention. For many guys this can be just too overwhelming to handle. 

So here to the rescue is Khun Lee’s Guide to Surviving Low Season

1) Never choose a lady early in the evening. No matter how perfect she is in every way, you will meet at least 5 women better than her later in the evening. 

2) Go with a friend (or friends) and make sure you sit down in such a way as to leave no room for a person to sit next to you. Otherwise every gal you don’t want to sit with will be next to you in a flash. 

3) Practice saying the word “NO” in the mirror at least 100 times before you go out. Then when you are making the rounds you will be able to turn down the countless offers you will receive from sexy lasses for various social interactions. For those of you who desire some on-the-job training, here is one possible scenario:

“No, I don’t want you to sit down. No, I don’t want to buy you a drink. No, I don’t want to pay your bar fine. No, I don’t want you to sit on my lap. Well, you can do That to me if it is really necessary. No, I don’t want to take you home with me. You want to do WHAT to me? Is that physically possible given the laws of Physics? You AND your friend want to do that to me at the same time? Which one is your friend? Ooooooooooo that one! Well, the hell with Khun Lee, he’s an idiot anyway. Check bin please!!” 

4) Go to busy places if you want to relax. It is low season, so all the dead bars and most of the mediocre bars will be very quiet and the gals will be all over you. I must warn you that your friends at home will offer little sympathy regarding this predicament. 

5) Sit on a bar stool next to the stage instead of a table. 

6) Tell every lady that you have no money. This one doesn’t work as well as you might think though. They normally just think you are trying to be tricky. 

7) Go out in large groups where most of the other guys are much more handsome than you. Unfortunately this strategy is nearly impossible for Dean Barrett and myself. 

8) Drink like a drunken sailor on shore leave and chase every skirt that looks good and just accept the abundance of attention you are receiving. My personal favorite. 

Don’t listen to those politically correct guide books that say cool season is the best time to visit. If you want to party and chase women, low season RULES!!!!!!

Read Khun Lee’s other WoWasis columns for more advice on navigating the adult dating scene through the backstreets of Bangkok

WoWasis banned book review: Paul Handley’s ‘The King Never Smiles’

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 26•10

As it says on the back cover, “Any journalist or academic who takes an interest in Thailand soon learns that one topic is off limits: the modern monarchy.” It also mentions that “it is dangerous, and one risks expulsion or jail for lèse-majesté” for reporting on sensitive matters relating to the royal family. And thusly, into these murky waters dives author Paul Handley in his book The King Never Smiles: A Biography of Thailand’s Bhumibol Adulyadej (2006, ISBN 0-300-10682-3). This book has been banned in Thailand and is not available for purchase there.

Expat writers living in Thailand never write publicly about the subject of the monarchy and accession, and are wary about discussing the subject with other than close friends or trusted colleagues. Handley’s book is unavailable in Thailand, although seemingly every bookstore employee knows of its existence. Although a half-decade old, the book, reflecting the nature of the subject matter itself, remains a political hot potato in the Land of Smiles.

Freedom of the Press is not a concept that means the same in Thailand as it does in many western countries, and that goes for book publishing and distribution as well. So if you want to read this important book, you’ll have to do it in another country. And it is an important book, as it provides an essential non-Thai perspective on the history of Thailand’s revered King Bhumibol Adulyadej, his family, confidants, and the history behind his accession to the throne.

Author Handley worked in Thailand for thirteen years, and worked as a foreign correspondent in Asia for more than twenty years. The book is 499 pages long, and is an exhaustive study. In addition to historical data relating to the King, there are fascinating details regarding Queen Sirikit and the entire royal family that have never appeared in Thai newspapers. The chapter entitled Family Headaches is important reading for those interested in the possibility of the accession to the throne of Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn.

Thai courts have repeatedly used the lèse-majesté concept liberally in jailing offenders, which is one of the many reasons that requesting this book in Thai bookstores raises eyebrows. In our opinion, it’s a must-read for anyone wishing to understand the politics that drive Thailand. If you’re an expat, we’d recommend reading it at a location away from Thailand. If you bring it back in your luggage, you do so at your own risk. Buy it now at the WoWasis estore.

WoWasis Book review: Timothy Hallinan’s ‘Breathing Water’

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 25•10

Breathing Water: A Bangkok Thriller (2009, ISBN 978-0-06-167223-1) is Bangkok Fiction writer Timothy Hallinan’s current foray into the ongoing saga of travel writer Poke Rafferty and his family, ex- bar girl Rose, and adopted daughter Miaow.

The novel is rather timely, in terms of what’s been happening politically in Bangkok during the first half of 2010, prosaically describing some of the elements underlying the social push-pull between the very wealthy and very poor in Thailand:

Rafferty knows Thailand well enough to be aware that people above a certain social and political level are virtually unaccountable, shielded from the consequences of their actions by layers of subordinates and networks of reciprocal favors and graft that corrupt both the police and the courts. These are the people, the “big people,” whom Rose despises, the people who attend dress balls with blood on their hands. There are not many of them, relatively speaking, but they have immense mass and they exert a kind of gravity that bends tens of thousands of lives into the orbit of their will.

Most farang pass through the gravitational Gordian knot of Bangkok unscathed, like long-haul comets for whom our solar system is just something else to shoulder their way past. Farang have no formal status here. They come and go. They dimple the surface of the city’s space-time like water-striding insects, staying a few months at a stretch and then flitting elsewhere. They don’t have enough mass to draw the gaze of the individuals around whom the orbits wheel.

But Rafferty is being gazed at. And he knows all the way to the pit of his stomach that it’s the worst thing that can happen to him. If they decide it is in their best interest, they can blow through him and his cobbled-together family like a cannonball through a handkerchief.

The above passage sets the scene for the action in the book, and for us here at WoWasis, we found the homeless street children to be the most compelling protagonists in the story. The fact that homeless beggars are essentially owned by criminal groups has long been one of Bangkok’s most uncomfortable secrets, and the management and enforcement structure, as well as the distribution and payment systems are well-explained. So too, are the living conditions of these powerless children and adults.

But Breathing Water is decidedly not a bleeding heart novel. As in the other tales of the saga, there are criminals whose stories are complex and full of surprises as the story unfolds. Veteran Bangkok watchers will recognize references to events, although fictionalized, that really occurred. The lives of the bad guys, which may seem bizarre to western readers, are similar to those described in the pages of Thailand’s newspapers. Hallinan is able to weave these disparate elements into a driving story that makes this book a difficult one to put down.

For readers of Hallinan’s previous books, the urchin-hero Superman returns, a notable recurring character dies, and Rafferty’s family is again in peril against societal elements that are more powerful than themselves.

This book is a great introduction to Thai society and politics for readers unfamiliar with the Land of Smiles. And for those who are familiar with life in the kingdom, it’s a terrific romp through the secret world that is barely noticeable, but completely surrounds their environment. Buy it now at the WoWasis estore, powered by Amazon.

 

<a href=”http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0061672238?ie=UTF8&tag=wow0d6-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0061672238″>Breathing Water: A Bangkok Thriller (Poke Rafferty Thrillers)</a><img src=”http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=wow0d6-20&l=as2&o=1&a=0061672238″ width=”1″ height=”1″ border=”0″ alt=”” style=”border:none !important; margin:0px !important;” />

The Good Manner: Is this Thai marriage or extortion?

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 24•10

The Good Manner: Love & Relationship Advice from WoWasis’ Pa Farang
This week’s dilemma: Thai marriage or extortion?

Dear Pa Farang, 

A serious matter of money is endangering the relationship between me and my Thai girlfriend of one year.  I’m not a cheapskate, take her out to nice dinners, and buy her nice things.  She’s a sweetheart, and we both talk of marriage.  She wants to take me upcountry in Isaan to meet her friends and family, but insists I give her $200 to send to the family in advance of our arrival. This smacks of extortion, and has led to more than one argument (I’m not paying!) Am I being conned, or being foolish? 

– I’m No Fool, No Siree

Dear No Fool,

Do you know her well enough to have determined that she’s a good egg and will treat you right after you’ve tied the knot? One year isn’t a whole lot of time. If we give her the benefit of the doubt, she’s honoring you by providing a situation in which you can be “pooh yai” (the big fella), and treat her fiends and family to a nice meal and party in which you (as the farang who will soon be joining the family) are the host. Taking you upcountry isn’t the same as meeting the girl’s parents in your own land. In Thailand, it represents a virtual marriage, and, as such, all her friends and family will want to meet you.  They, however, will not be able to pay for it.  In the concept of “pooh-yai”, the person who makes the most money, or has the higher status, takes on the responsibility and honor of paying for the meals of others. This, in return, honors you, your future wife, and her family. And in truth, it’s her family that you’re actually marrying, warts in all. Among Thai people, very little is as important as supporting one’s family, especially when the individual is a westerner. Thais think all westerners are rich. And they are, compared to upcountry standards. You may have to draw the line somewhere, though.  Being pooh-yai necessarily doesn’t mean you’ll buy dad a pick-up truck, or a house for the family.  

My advice is to discuss, alone with your girlfriend, the nature of being pooh-yai and saving face, and determine what she perceives the responsibilities of pooh-yai to be, before, during, and after the marriage itself. 

–  Pa Farang

Read Pa Farang’s other columns for more advice on relationships in Southeast Asia

Confessions of a Bangkok Private Eye: how Warren nearly met his demise

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 22•10

Here at WoWasis, we keep a pretty sharp eye on ways to meet one’s end in Southeast Asia. One of our favorite true stories was told by private eye Warren Olson, whose book Confessions of a Bangkok Private Eye: True stories from the case files of Warren Olson is a must read (more info at the end of the story). What makes this story gripping and scary is that Olson was far from naïve. He’d seen it all… or so he thought. But this same story could have happened to anyone getting involved, to even a remote extent, in a relationship with a dicey individual, or her dodgy family. He calls this story The Case of the Missing Motor, and it’s right from the book. It’s 12 pages long, and well worth the read:

Dave was one of my best friends in Thailand. I wouldn’t exactly stop a bullet for him, but I’d trust him with my wallet and maybe even my girlfriend. He’s from the UK, one of those northern towns where it always seems to be raining, and he made a living as a freelance journalist. He was in his early thirties when I first met him. I was managing a big hotel in Surin and he wandered in with a young bargirl. I kept in touch with him over the years and when I moved to Bangkok he became a regular drinking partner whenever he passed through the city. He was younger and better looking than me so he was a good guy to use on my bargirl investigations. A bargirl who was supposedly not working might turn me down but might well a take a couple of thousand baht to be bedded by the young Adonis.

During one of his frequent stopovers he met Nong, a twenty-two-year-old student at one of the local universities. She quickly became his regular girlfriend, and we’d often go out to Thai nightclubs as a threesome. Nong had an older sister, Sen, who had landed herself a wealthy Japanese guy a few years earlier. She had prised a four-million baht dowry from him which enabled her to buy a nice house in the suburbs, a new car to drive around in, and enough spare cash to be able to send money to make life a little easier for her parents back in Sara Buri. Sen didn’t approve of Dave. I got the feeling she thought that her little sister could do better. The Japanese businessman had gone back to his wife in Tokyo, and Sen had been trying to encourage Nong to land herself a wealthy benefactor. Dave earned enough to get by, but he was never going to get rich working as a freelance journalist. Sen would have been much happier if Nong had landed a rich Japanese, or a rich American, or a rich German. In fact, so far as Sen was concerned, nationality wasn’t important but money most definitely was. Their parents were good, middle-class Thais, who owned a small banana plantation in Sara Buri, a town in the centre of Thailand. Once she reached eighteen, the parents had sent Nong down to live with Sen and get a decent education.

After Nong and Dave had been going out for a couple of months, Sen put her foot down and sent her younger sister back to Sara Buri. Dave wasn’t too bothered. He was travelling all around the region, and with his good looks he had more than his fair share of female admirers. But before long Nong was back in Bangkok and she soon met up with Dave again. Sen started to realise that she wasn’t getting anywhere by trying to keep Nong and Dave apart. She even began to drive her younger sister out to the airport to meet Dave whenever he flew into the country.

Dave used to join me at my favourite stamping ground on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 13 for a few cold beers. It was during one of these evening drinking sessions that Dave told me that Nong had been asking him to buy her a car. I was surprised because Nong had been really good about not asking Dave for money. In fact the only time he’d mentioned giving her money was when she’d asked him for 5,000 baht for collagen injections to puff up her lips, which was sort of for his benefit, I guess. A car was a big investment, and Dave was having second thoughts. I sensed the hand of Sen and felt sure that she was putting Nong up to it.

Dave said that he was happy enough to spend money on Nong, but he’d rather set her up in a business. Nong had said that a decent secondhand car would cost about 100,000 baht. In fact, Sen was offering to sell Nong her own car. Sen was planning to upgrade to a newer model and rather than trading it in she wanted to sell it to Nong. Dave reckoned that he could rent her a nice shop in Marboon Krong and stock it. He decided to have a long talk with Nong and suggest that she let him set her up in business so that she would be more independent. A business would be an asset that would hopefully grow in value, but a car would be worth less every year.

At the time, Dave was sleeping on the couch in my living room. He was only in Thailand a few days each month so there was no point in him renting a place of his own. If he wanted to sleep with Nong he’d book into a hotel. Not that I was a prude, it’s just that the sofa wasn’t big enough for two and I wasn’t prepared to give him my bed for sex. Anyway, Nong came around to my place to talk things through with Dave. She said that she’d talked it through with Sen, and decided that buying the car was the best option. Nong would learn to drive then she’d be able to drive herself to university, and she and Dave could use it for sight-seeing when ever he was in town. The car was a five-year-old Honda Civic and Dave had already asked around a few dealers and been told that the going rate was between 150,000 baht and 180,000 baht, so it seemed that Sen was giving them a good deal.

Dave figured that if the worst came to the worst he’d be able to get his money back, plus maybe a small profit, so he let Nong talk him into it. They went to the bank together and Dave withdrew the money from his account and gave it to her. He didn’t ask for my advice so I didn’t say anything, but I couldn’t help but think that he was being a bit rash. I’ve come across countless horror stories where gullible farangs have bought cars, houses, land and even businesses from the relatives of their Thai girlfriends or wives, only to have it all end in tears. Not that Dave was gullible, he wasn’t, but he wasn’t married to Nong and he only saw her for a few days each month. And why did a student need a car? I didn’t even own one, if I needed wheels I hired a car. Anyway, he didn’t ask for my opinion, so I didn’t give it.

Everything went fine for a while. Nong learned to drive, and she would pick Dave up at the airport whenever he arrived in Thailand. The flat I rented came with its own parking space so when Dave was in town he left it there, and when he was away, Nong used it.

After a few months Dave was sent to the UK on an assignment. While he was away, I went out on the town at one of our old stamping grounds, the RCA, which was where young upper-class wealthy Thais would hang out of an evening. I knew most of the Thai doormen, and on my way into one of the bigger discos one of the doormen pulled me to one side and said that he wanted a word with me. He told me that he’d seen Nong in the disco with several young Thai guys. I wasn’t surprised. Nong liked to go out and have a good time, and with Dave away and her driving around in a decent car, Thai boys would be around her like flies around shit. I phoned Dave and told him the bad news. He was philosophical. He said he’d noticed that she was becoming a bit evasive of late and that she’d started switching her phone off late at night. Dave felt that the love affair had just about run its course and was planning to call it quits anyway.

The following week he stopped off in Bangkok en route to Hong Kong. He booked into a hotel so that he could spend some time alone with Nong. Actually, I figured he just wanted a few last shags before calling time on the affair. Anyway, once the sex was out of the way, he got down to some straight talking with the lovely Nong. He told her that he knew about her nocturnal activities at the RCA. She just shrugged and she was there with friends. He knew she was lying, and got the impression that she didn’t care whether he knew or not. What really ticked Dave off was the fact that she had been pretty much the perfect girlfriend right up until he’d paid 100,000 baht for the car.

Dave told her that it was best they just go their separate ways. Nong shrugged. Dave said he’d arrange to sell he car and he’d split the money with her, fifty-fifty. Nong shrugged, then left.

Dave called her the next day, but Nong didn’t answer the phone. He phoned the sister’s house, but no one answered. That really annoyed him. He had to go to Hong Kong so he left a spare set of keys for the Honda with me and asked if I’d take care of the car until he got back. I had a couple of jobs lined up where a car would be useful, so I took a motorcycle out to Sen’s house. There was no one at home but the car was in the driveway so I drove it back to the city. I decided not to park it in my space just in case Nong started to get possessive over the car, so instead I left it in the car park of a nearby hotel.

I was watching TV a few hours later when the doorbell rang. I checked the peephole before opening the door. It was Nong. I told her the Dave wasn’t staying with me but she kept ringing the bell. I opened the door to give her a piece of my mind but as soon as I did three heavy set Thais in cheap suits charged into the room, followed by Nong’s older sister. I made a run for the kitchen, thinking that I was about to get a kicking. My plan was to grab a bread knife and start flailing it around, but one of the men pulled out a badge and started screaming that he was a policeman. I calmed down a bit and looked at the badge. It looked real enough.

Sen began screaming that I was the farang who’d stolen her car, and it all fell into place. Nong didn’t say anything, she just stared at the floor. One of the detectives grabbed my left arm. I started talking to the senior office in Thai and asked him if I could talk to him one on one, that I was sure there had been a mistake and that we could easily sort it out. The officer agreed and his two men ushered Sen and Nong out into the corridor.

I offered him a drink and we both sat down with tumblers of Johnnie Walker Black Label and Coke. The detective explained that Sen had returned home to find the Honda Civic had gone and that a neighbour told her that a farang had driven it away. Sen had gone straight around to her local police station and they had asked the police in my area to make enquiries.

I hit the roof. I told him that it wasn’t Sen’s car any more, that my friend Dave had paid 100,000 baht for it. I explained that Dave had given me the key and that Dave was planning to sell the car when he got back and give half the money to Nong. I was just an innocent party, and I resented the fact that Sen was laying the blame at my door.

The detective shrugged, finished his whisky, and then went outside to speak to Nong. He came back after a few minutes and said that there seemed to be a difference of opinion over who actually owned the car, and that the police would have to sort it out. He seemed like an okay guy so I asked him if we could both go to the police station where the complaint had been lodged and explain the situation to them. I’d feel happier if he was with me. For all I knew, Sen might well be tight with the cops there.

The detective agreed and he drove me in his pick-up truck while Sen and Nong followed in a police car. We reached the station just before midnight and we were all ushered into the duty captain’s office. The captain was overweight with short, close-cropped grey hair and a jagged scar across his left cheek as if someone had stabbed him with a broken bottle years ago. He grinned when he saw me and I saw the flash of a gold tooth at the back of his mouth. I could almost see the dollar signs in his eyes as he tried to work out how much money he could extort from me.

As soon as Sen walked into his office she started mouthing off again, that I’d stolen her car and lied to her sister, that I’d told Nong’s boyfriend that she was sleeping around, that I was a liar and a thief and that I should be sent to prison.

I turned to my new-found detective friend for support but as soon as he started to speak the captain jabbed a finger at him and told him that he was out of his jurisdiction and that he might as well go straight back to Bangkok. My detective hurried out, clearly embarrassed. Sen launched into another verbal attack, pacing around the room as she accused me of stealing her car, lying to her sister, having bad body odour, and everything else she could think of. When she finally ran out of steam, the captain picked up a toothpick and began jiggling it between his front teeth as he waved at me to speak.

I spoke slowly and clearly, in my very best Thai, with lots of smiles and nods. My fate was totally in the captain’s hands. If he decided there was no case to answer, I’d be tucked up in my bed within hours. If he decided I was guilty or didn’t like the look of me I’d be in a prison cell for up to a year waiting for my case to come to court. I explained that the car belonged to my friend Dave, that he had paid 100,000 baht for the car, and that I had the keys. I took them from my pocket and waved them over the captain’s desk. If Sen wanted to give back the 100,000 baht, she could have the car.

The captain grimaced, tossed the chewed toothpick into an ashtray, and told us both to make written statements. That took the best part of two hours. Then we were back in the captain’s office. He read through the statements while Sen sat in the corner, glaring daggers at me. Eventually the captain tossed the statements into a metal tray on his desk.

‘You must tell us where the car is, then we can decide how much money you owe,’ he said.

Sen let out a sharp yelp of triumph, but the captain silenced her with a cold stare.

I offered to go and fetch the car but the captain said no, under the law he couldn’t let me go until the car was returned. I knew that I had no choice other than to give him the keys and tell him where I’d left the car. I said that the apartment car park was full so I’d left it at the nearby hotel. Two uniformed cops took me upstairs and I was placed in a small waiting room while the captain sent one of his men to fetch the Honda. It was three o’clock in the morning. Two hours later the captain came upstairs. The older sister had taken possession of the car, he said.

I hit the roof and shouted that it wasn’t her car, that she’d been paid a 100,000 baht for it.

The captain said that the car’s papers were in order and showed Sen as the owner. And that for the moment, I was to remain in police custody. With that, he turned and left. A uniformed officer gripped my arm and took me to a holding cell. There were twenty men in there. No bunks, no pillows, no blankets, just a bare concrete floor, a foul-smelling bucket to piss in and a tap with a short length of hosepipe attached for washing. Several of the men already there were curled up on the floor, trying to sleep. The overhead fluorescent lights were on. Rats were scurrying around the edges of the cell, and there were cockroaches all over the walls.

A couple of Thai men with tattoos came over and asked what I’d done. I told them about the car. They were in on drugs charges. One had been caught with several kilos of amphetamine tablets in his truck and would almost certainly get the death penalty. I squatted against a wall and cursed the day I’d offered to help Dave out.

At eight o’clock in the morning there was a change of shift and two uniformed officers arrived with a small plastic bowl of rice for each of us, a bowl of hot, rancid soup and a bottle of water. I asked one of the guards if I could talk to the duty captain but I was told that he’d gone home.

‘Who else can I talk to about my case?’ I asked, scratching one of the dozen or so mosquito bites I’d acquired during the night.

‘Only him,’ said the guard.

‘When is he back?’

‘Ten o’clock tonight.’

I cursed. I’d have to stay in the hellhole for at least another fourteen hours. I asked if I could phone the New Zealand Embassy but was told that I wasn’t allowed to make any phone calls. I drank from the bottle of water and gave the bowl of soup to one of the scrawnier-looking prisoners. It was going to be a long day.

There was nothing to do but talk to the other guys in the holding cell, so during the course of the day I got to hear most of their stories. One young guy who was in for attempted rape kept telling everyone that his father was rich and that he was paying 50,000 baht and that he would be released that afternoon. He was, too. Others were shackled and taken away to be sentenced. Most were there on drugs charges. I felt really sorry for one guy. Gung his name was. He couldn’t have been more than twenty years old. He was almost in tears. He’d been in the holding cell for almost a week and reckoned he was going to go to prison for at least three months. He had no money so he hadn’t even been able to phone his mother to tell her where he was. He gave me a scrap of paper with his mother’s name on it and begged me to phone her when I got out. He said I was his only hope.

I had a few hundred baht on me so I was able to buy a can of Coke and a packet of crisps. I tried to sleep but it was almost impossible on the hard concrete floor, even using my trainers as a makeshift pillow. One time I opened my eyes to see Gung scoffing the last of my crisps. I screamed at him and he burst into tears, telling me that he was starving. I ripped up the piece of paper he’d given me. I was damned if I was going to call his mother after I’d caught him stealing from me.

I waited until five minutes after ten before asking one of the guards if the captain was in yet. He frowned and said it was the captain’s weekend off and that he wouldn’t be back until Monday. I almost passed out. Monday? I had to spend another forty-eight hours in the holding cell for no other reason than that the captain was away playing golf or snooker or shagging his minor wife.

My T-shirt and jeans were already caked in dirt and sweat and I itched all over. I couldn’t bear the thought of two more nights. I wanted to shout and scream but I knew that there was nothing I could do to change the situation. I forced myself to stay calm. Jai yen yen, as the Thais are so fond of saying. Cool heart.

As it happened, the duty captain put in an appearance the following night. Manacles were slapped on my wrists and I was taken down to his office. He seemed to be in a good mood and he listened patiently as I said that it was the older sister who should be behind bars, that I was an innocent third party, that I wanted to speak to my embassy and to my lawyer. When I finished speaking, he cracked his knuckles, picked up a toothpick and flicked it with his thumbnail as he outlined the case against me. The case he would be presenting the judge. The car wasn’t mine. The paperwork for the car was in the older sister’s name. She had not given me permission to take away the vehicle. And the money that I was claiming was payment for the car was in fact a dowry that Dave had paid as an engagement gift.

That stopped me in my tracks. What?

The captain said that Dave had been sleeping with Nong’s younger sister and the 100,000 baht was to compensate for the time she wasn’t studying, for her university fees, for her food and her keep. As an act of good faith, the older sister had lent Dave her car.

I started to appreciate just how much trouble I was in. And that maybe, just maybe, Sen had been telling the truth. It could well have been the case that Nong had been too embarrassed to tell Dave that the family was demanding a dowry, and that she’d spun him a line about the money being a payment for the car. And even if it wasn’t the truth, in my experience Thai courts tend to take the word of Thai nationals over the word of a foreigner. Plus it would be two against one, their word against mine. And as things stood, I had stolen the car.

The captain smiled at me sympathetically. ‘I know you are not a thief, Khun Warren,’ he said, He shrugged. ‘The problem is, I have already done the paperwork. I would be very difficult to make any changes at this late stage …’

He looked at me expectantly. I knew exactly what was happening. He was giving me the chance to buy myself out of the hole I was in. ‘I don’t have any money on me,’ I said.

‘But you have an ATM card,’ he said.

I did a few quick calculations in my head. I figured I probably had about 40,000 baht in the account. I told him that I was a teacher and that I had hardly any money, but that I could probably get him 30,000 baht.

‘Fifty thousand,’ he said.

I told him that all I had left in my account was 40,000 baht, and that he could have it all. I pulled out my wallet and took out my ATM card. ‘If you take me to the nearest machine, I’ll withdraw all the money.’

He held out his hand for the card. ‘You have to stay here while you are charged,’ he said. ‘Give me the pin number and I will see what I can do.’

I wrote the pin number down on a piece of paper with my manacled hands and the captain told one of his men to take me back to the holding cell.

I was dog-tired and I sat down with my back against the wall, my knees drawn up against my chest. I closed my eyes but stayed awake, hoping and praying that my name would be called and that I would be let out. The call never came. I dozed, and when I woke up I was sprawled on the floor and it was daylight. Breakfast had been served while I was asleep and someone had eaten my rice and soup. When a guard appeared I was told that the captain had gone home and wouldn’t be back until the evening. Now I was really worried. The captain had taken my card and probably emptied the account, but I had no way of knowing whether or not he would honour the agreement. I don’t think I’ve ever been so scared in my life. I’ve had guns pointed at me, I’ve had guys pull knives on me, I’ve had bargirls threaten to cut off my private parts and feed them to ducks, but none of that compared with the terror of knowing that I was facing months if not years in a Thai prison. People die in Thai prisons. Lots of people. They get sick, they get knifed, they get raped, they commit suicide. And if they survive their incarceration, they’re never the same. My three days in the holding cell had been just a taste of what lay ahead of me if the captain didn’t keep his end of the bargain.

I kept looking at my watch and prayed that the captain would come back. He did. And at eleven o’clock I was taken to his office. The manacles were removed and a bottle of Thai whisky appeared from his desk and he poured two glasses. We toasted each other. Then he waved a typed report in front of me. ‘I have made a small alteration,’ he said. ‘A small but important alteration. It now says that you borrowed the car from the older sister. Borrowed and not stole.’ He picked up another typed form and slid it across the desk towards me. ‘This is a release form. You will sign it. It says that you have been well and fairly treated here, it says that we have not asked you for any money. And it says that you will not bother Khun Nong any more.’ He handed me a ballpoint pen. ‘If you give me any problem in the future, I will cross out “borrow” and write in “steal”. Do you understand?’

I nodded. Yeah, I understood. I had paid him a 40,000-baht bribe and was now signing a piece of paper that said I hadn’t bribed him. I signed. The papers were taken away to be counter-signed, photocopied, stamped and filed. I was even given a copy of both papers, and the captain slipped me an envelope containing my ATM card then the captain told that I was free to go.

I stumbled down the stairs in a daze. It was just after midnight. I felt like the guy in Midnight Express, staggering out of prison, not believing that I was actually free. I kept thinking that at any minute the cops would come running after me to slap the manacles on me again. I was hungry, I was thirsty, and I stank to high heaven. I needed a bath, I needed a steak and I needed my bed. And a woman would be nice. But first of all I needed a taxi, because I wanted to put as much distance between myself and the police station as possible.

I saw a blue and red cab with its light on and I flagged it down, jumped into the back and barked out my address before he could complain about the smell. Thailand was never the same for me after that weekend. It had been sullied. Spoilt. And I had seen for myself how easy it was for things to go horribly wrong in the Land of Smiles.

Buy Confessions of a Bangkok Private Eye now at the WoWasis eStore.

Who owns the news? Not the major news networks.

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 21•10

 

Bangkok May, 2010

WoWasis had a very interesting conversation the other day with a cameraman from the BBC. We were discussing the red shirt protest in Bangkok in May of 2010, in which several reporters and camerapersons were killed or injured while in the line of fire. We mentioned that some of the most interesting footage was shot by amateurs, rather than professionals. He replied, somewhat indignantly, “Did you ever stop to think that those amateurs were putting the lives of the professionals in peril?”

Our first response was “how?” But on second thought, the real issue is since when do major news networks feel they “own” the news to the extent that others don’t have the “right” to cover anything they damn well please? It’s easy to see how networks and press people could feel this way. For decades, they owned the expensive cameras, newspapers, and other media outlets that were virtually the only source of information. An amateur simply wouldn’t get published. And in the old days, amateurs were pretty much limited to 8mm or 16mm non-synch sound cameras. Not very sexy for broadcast media.

Today, the proliferation of inexpensive handheld cameras and “instant-press” media (the blog post you’re reading is one of those) essentially makes everyone a potential reporter/cameraperson. Yes, in often heated urban battle zones, reporters will trip over each other, especially when scrambling to avoid fire. One big difference in terms of what gets shown and reported is that amateurs can post content on the internet without limits to available space, time, or the occasional interests of advertisers or political expediencies (the image accompanying this post of a soldier standing next to Ronald McDonald is just one example of a photo that probably wouldn’t make it into the pages of a newspaper that was driving significant advertising revenue from that restaurant chain).

To the chagrin of our BBC friend, the world of media is changing, and news networks the world over are increasingly purchasing amateur footage for use in broadcasts. Other material that would have been censored in the past is now being made available to anyone with access to an internet connection. Television news programming is being more and more geared to “infotainment” rather than hard news stories, and the fact that many people are choosing to get their news from sources other than traditional print and media outlets is no longer news.

Technology has changed the face of news reporting in the space of one generation. Some folks still don’t get it.

One way to beat the heat: why WoWasis loves Thailand’s Prickly Heat Powder

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 20•10

There are lots of ways to beat the extreme temperatures of Southeast Asia, beginning with cold beer and aircon. But one of WoWasis’ favorites is the liberal use of Snake Brand’s Prickly Heat Powder, which you can use for a lot of stuff, and it’s cheap and readily available, too. 

It’s usually sold in a tin 150 gram shaker can, and it’s marketed as a “soothing powder which is effective in relieving itching, prickly heat rash, and skin irritation from hot weather.” You just put it on like talc (or better yet, have a friend do it), and its spices really go to work to cool things down. 

Not only that, but we used it in a pinch one day when we ran out of deodorant. We smelled great all day and that night too! One of our pet peeves about all of Southeast Asia is how bad many westerners smell, and we wish like hell that they’d use Prickly Heat Powder and save the rest of us from misery. 

The company that makes it, The British Dispensary Co. Ltd., has been around and active in Thailand since 1892. Although they market the powder in lavender, herbal, and anti-bacterial iterations, real men stick with the “Classic” formula in the red-banded can. We have a devil of a time finding our favorite deodorant in SE Asia, and try to pack enough from home so we’re never caught unawares. But Prickly Heat does a nice job as a backup, and feels nice everywhere else, too.

Bachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on why you shouldn’t give away your life savings to a bar girl

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 18•10

I really love Thailand.  Last week I saw an incredibly gorgeous lady on the skytrain, and as fate would have it, she got off at my stop.  I proceeded to follow her (as I had nowhere in particular that I had to be) and she walked into a candy store not far from the skytrain station.  It became obvious to me that she worked there, so I waited for her to resume work, and then chose some candy and went straight to the cash register that she was working at. After the usual chatter in Thai language about where we are from, how long in Bangkok etc., I confessed to her (with some trepidation) that I had followed her from the skytrain station. Now I must state right here and now that in the part of farangland that I come from the lady probably would have screamed bloody murder and reported me to the police as a stalker!  Well, this lady got all red in the face and told me that I had made her day and that was the nicest thing anyone had said to her in a long time!  Needless to say, phone numbers were exchanged and we plan on seeing a movie this weekend. 

Here is a wake up call story from farangland.  One of my best friends back in Antisepticville, USA (yes-that’s what I call it) is quite successful and has been married 12 years to an equally successful lady.  They have an agreement where as both parties deposit half of their salaries into a joint account in order to pay bills, and the other half is kept as their own money to spend as they please. A  pretty sound arrangement in my opinion.  He had been saving all year long in order to use his own money to buy her the car of her dreams for their anniversary.  He proceeded to pay over $60,000 U.S.  for the car and gave it to her the night they celebrated their anniversary.  She was really surprised and happy as one can imagine.  Two weeks later, looking really glum,  she told him “if you were REALLY sensitive to my needs, you would have realized that was not the color that I wanted the car to be.  But don’t worry, I can STILL DRIVE IT.”  The REALLY sad part is that after I told my friend I would dump her for such an arrogant and thankless attitude, his response was “I am lucky just to have ANY woman.” I really love Thailand. 

While on the subject of farangland, I was in MBK the other day and there was a group of University of Pennsylvania students in the internet café.  There were 18 gals and 20 boys.  I can honestly say that NOT ONE of the 18 gals was even the least bit attractive. Amazing.  Can you imagine 18 Thai university students all together in one place?  At least 5 would be off the charts beautiful and most of the remainder would be somewhat pleasant on the eyes. I really love Thailand. 

He lasted only 11 days! I still cannot believe it.  11 days!  Well, 4 years ago, while sitting at a beer bar in Bangkok and enjoying the sights and sounds around me, I met a really nice guy from Arizona, USA.  We exchanged email addresses, and several weeks later I received my first email from him. He had returned to Arizona from his delightful first trip to Thailand and was wondering if I would give him some pointers on how to move to Thailand at a fairly young age (as I have) and all the particulars of such a life changing move.  Over the next year and a half we exchanged countless emails, and I must say he was intelligent and thoughtful. He asked all the right questions, and always soaked up my bits of wisdom and came back with even more intelligent inquiries. He seemed to me to be a perfect candidate for moving to Thailand and living a happy and fruitful life.  This guy left no detail to chance.  He knew where he was going to live, exactly how much he would spend each month, where the money was going to come from, even had a list of restaurants he could eat at for under 50 baht.  The big day came and we met at Bus Stop on Sukumvit soi 4 on his first day as a genuine Bangkok expat.  He had a book 3 inches thick full of notes on every aspect of life here. This guy had a plan!  He was still relatively young (45) and had a very detailed plan on how he was going to retire young and stay in Paradise for the rest of his life.  Needless to say, many of our emails dealt with the nightlife and all the temptations of life in Thailand. I reminded him countless times that he would not be on holiday, would not be returning to a cushy overpaid position in farangland, and had to pace himself and act accordingly.  

Well, after we met the first night, I didn’t see or hear from him for another week.  Finally, I bumped into him at MBK and he had a young lady with him.  We talked for a while and agreed to meet for lunch the following day. The next day at lunch he proceeded to tell me that he had barfined her all 7 nights since the day his plane landed, and that he was “in love” and was going to take care of her as his girlfriend! Oh Nooooooo! I tried in vain to talk him out of this insanity, but he was not interested in hearing the voice of reason and went on his merry way.  Three days later I saw him at Bus Stop again, and he told me that he had drained his bank account and given nearly all of his money to his girlfriend to buy a 7-11 shop in her hometown. Funny thing is, after going to her hometown with her he found out that she had a Thai husband already and she told him straight away that  now that she had all of his money, she really had no use for him anymore.  He was heartbroken as well as having spent 90% of his life savings on her.  

This guy was smart, detail oriented and had saved enough money to live in Thailand for the rest of his life, and HE LASTED 11 DAYS!  I really love Thailand. However, for people who can’t handle themselves around women, or have no discipline with money, this place just ain’t for them! Everything is available 24 hours a day, and for some people the temptation to overindulge is just too great. He knew this gal for a week. It doesn’t matter what country you are in or how lovely the gal seems, when you’ve known someone for a week you are still TOTAL STRANGERS! I’ve noticed that the guys who get in the most trouble don’t possess what I call a “self protection mindset.” The money that I have saved up during my lifetime belongs to me and I would NEVER throw away my future happiness and welfare by loaning or giving my nest egg to anyone. I budget my money and if I see that I have spent a few thousand baht more than usual, I just stay in the next couple of days and catch up on my reading. 

My friend still emails me from Arizona, but no matter how many times I tell him to stay away from Thailand because this place is just not for him, he is still planning to save money for 5 more years and come back and try again!

Read Khun Lee’s other WoWasis columns for more advice on navigating the adult dating scene through the backstreets of Bangkok

Discovering a lovely spa on Indonesia’s island of Bali

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 17•10

Waroeng Djamoe Spa

Indonesia is the home of some magnificent spas, and some of the finest are to be found on the islands of Java and Bali. There are, we at WoWasis would guess, approximately 1,000 spas of different types on the island of Bali alone.

The Waroeng Djamoe Spa hotel spa at the Tagu Bali Hotel, in southestern Bali is one of southeast Asia’s finest spa experiences, and the setting, architecture, and grounds of the hotel itself are wonderful. There are actually 7 spas in all, so nothing’s missing if you’re looking for a memorable spa experience. The hotel is located at Canggu Beach, 30 minutes from the Nhurah Rai Intl airport, and 15 minutes from the city of Seminyak.

Waroeng Djamoe Spa hotel spa at the Tagu Bali Hotel
Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, Bali, Indonesia
Tel: (62-361) 731701
www.tuguhotels.com/bali/spa%20waroeng%20djamoe.htm

Know of any other great spas in Bali? Respond to this post, and tell us about your favorites!

The Good Manner: Losing one’s girlfriend… to another girl!

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jun• 17•10

The Good Manner: Love & Relationship Advice from WoWasis’ Pa Farang
This week’s dilemma: losing one’s girlfriend… to another girl!

Dear Pa Farang, 

I have been with my girlfriend, Apple, for more than a year.  I’m very much in love with her, and we have talked marriage.  Unfortunately, I only see her two nights a week, Friday and Saturday, because she is a law student at a prestigious Bangkok university, and uses the other nights to study.  When we are together, things are very passionate.  Last Wednesday night, I had a few beers with some friends, in another part of town.  I walked into a convenience store to buy some smokes, and who’s there?  Though this was nowhere near where she lived, Apple was at the counter, with a very masculine-looking woman!  They looked chummy, and get this — while the clerk was busy, the other girl pinched Apple’s rear.  I said nothing, and she didn’t know I was there. 

On Friday night, I confronted her with what I saw.  She finally confessed that she has a “tom,” someone she’s met at school, who she sees five nights a week.  In fact, the tom has asked her to move in. Apple says she loves me, and loves her tom, too. My friends are telling me to face facts, but I think, although she may be very confused, that if I continue to be understanding, in the end, I will triumph, and Apple and I will marry. Pa Farang, I have a good heart, and am a good provider… by remaining strong, attentive, and affectionate, can I win this one? 

–          Tom’s Foolery 

Dear TF, 

Based on what you are saying, Apple likes her bread buttered on both sides!   It is very un-Thai to show affection in public, and rear-pinching, like jahkatee tickling, is something rarely seen, except among farang.  The fact that Apple apparently didn’t dissuade her tom from doing this indicates they are beyond the “close friends” stage, and Apple is unafraid of acting unconventionally.

You say you are a good provider… are you paying Apple’s way through school?  Because if you are, you not only cannot win this one, you have already lost. If she is not getting money from her parents, she is being supported by you, her tom, or both of you.  Or, she may allot both of you two days each week, and find another source for her money during the remaining three.  That is not hard to do in the Kingdom’s largest city.  If this is the case, you and her tom may become crying partners, if Apple eventually finds somebody wealthier than you both. 

Apple doesn’t sound confused to me at all.  She sounds ideally suited to the legal profession, as she has apparently found how to collect from opposing clients, without having to appear before the judge!  You are hurting, but you must show The Good Manner by recusing yourself from this case, while you and Apple are still friends.  Who knows, if I am mistaken, she may renounce her tom in your favor, but if that happens, you must insist on habeas corpus seven nights a week.

– Pa Farang

Read Pa Farang’s other columns for more advice on relationships in Southeast Asia