The sharper edge to traveling in Asia

WoWasis Book review: Harold Stephens’ Tales from the Pacific Rim

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 28•10

Harold Stephens is a well-regarded expat writer and sailor who has written a number of interesting books on Asian themes, and we’ve found his Tales from the Pacific Rim: The Man Who Wanted to Buy a Wife and Other Stories (2007, ISBN 0-9786951-0-0) to be a compelling read. 

There are twenty short stories in this book, situated in locales all over SE Asia, including Laos, Singapore, Tahiti, and Thailand. Stephens’ best tales are poignant reminders that all is never what it seems, particularly when expats try to navigate through SE Asian cultures. The Agent is a wonderful tale of a naïve western artist who understands neither the nuances of a relationship with his Laotian girlfriend, not the artifice of his New York-based sales agent. Full Circle was our personal favorite, juxtaposing the idyllic life led by a couple of Australian surfers in Tahiti, and what became of an island romance when it fell on the rocky shoals of the exigencies of managing family interests at home. 

In many of his stories, Stephens weaves in tidbits of sailing lore, and the romance of life in the tropics is never far from the harsh realities that lie never too far from the fantasy. This book will be of interest to SE Asian expats, armchair adventurers, and anyone who has sailed, or hopes to sail, through Asian waters. Buy it now at the WoWasis estore, powered by Amazon.

Javanese Shadow Puppets at Jogjakarta’s Sonobudoyo Museum

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 27•10

Maker or shodow puppets at Sonobudoyo Museum

Traditional shadow puppet theatre is an art form that attracts many to the island of Java, and one of the finest Javanese troupes we’ve seen performs nightly from 8 pm to 10 pm at Jogjakarta’s Sonobudoyo Museum. In this Ramayana show, the Walang Kulit Performance, you’ll see master puppeteers play out an elaborate story, accompanied by a phenomenal gamelan orchestra. 

During the day, you can visit the museum and see the extensive collection of historical shadow puppets, and visit the puppet-makers’ workshop, where you can see shadow puppets being made, and buy a contemporary masterpiece if you choose.  The museum, located in central Jogjakarta, is easily accessible by a sort walk from the walled city, or by becak.

Sonobudoyo Museum
Jalan Tikora #6, Jogjakarta
Tel: (0274) 385664
Museum open Tues-Sat: 8 am – 2:30 pm; Friday 8 am – 11 am; Sat-Sun 8 am – 1 pm
Shows nightly (except Monday) at 8 pm

Ramayana Ballet Dance at Purawisata, in Jogjakarta, Java, Indonesia

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 26•10

Members of the Ramayana Ballet Dance troupe

Traditional dance is an art form that attracts many to the islands of Bali and Java, and one of the finest Javanese troupes we’ve seen is the Ramayana Ballet Dance troupe performing at the Purawisata Amusement park each evening at 8 pm. You can combine the show with a terrific dinner that begins at 7pm  at the Gazebo Garden Restaurant, which iactually part of the theatre. This amazing performance has been given for more than 30 years, elaborately staged, and lighted. This is a “can’t miss” in Jogjakarta, and a favorite of ours

Ramayana Open Air Theatre at the Purawista Amusement Park
Jalan Brigjen Katamso, Jogjakarta (just east of the Sultan Palace
Tel: +62-274-375705
www.purawisatajogja.com
GPS S07°48.484’ E110°22.218′

Kecak Fire and Trance Dance in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 26•10
The character of Laksamana
The character of Laksamana

Traditional dance is an art form that attracts many to the islands of Bali and Java, and one of the finest Balinese troupes we’ve seen is the Taman Kaja Community’s Kecak Fire and Trance Dance. Held each Wednesday and Saturday night at 7:30 at the Pura Dalem Taman Kaja. 

The Kecak monkey chant that accompanies the dance is provided by the human voice, the gamelan suara, a choir of a hundred men or more sitting in concentric circles, swaying, standing up, lying prone as the story develops. Amongst the swaying masses the voices of the storytellers can be heard telling the unfolding tale, a story fragment of the Ramayana. 

Following the Kecak, a trance dance, the Sanghyang Djaran, is performed on burning coconut husk coals. We found this to be an unforgettable evening of music, dance, and Balinese culture, and not to be missed. 

Desa Pakraman Taman Kaja
Sri Wedari Street, just north of Jaslan Raya Ubud
Tel: 0361-970508
www.kecakdance.com

Dieng Plateau on Indonesia’s island of Java

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 25•10

Traditional temple on the Dieng Plateau

Home to the oldest Hindu temples in Java, the Dieng plateau, at some 6,000 feet in altitude, hosts more than 400 ancient structures. Though not as visually stunning as Borobudur, these temples are part of a beautiful landscape of terraced gardens, and the whole effect is wonderful. 

Dieng Plateau is best reached in a day trip from Jogjakarta, and you can easily see Borobudur the same day.

Plaosan Hindu BuddistTemples in Central Java

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 23•10

Plaosan temple complex in Central Java

Only 3km from the temple complex at Prambanan stand the two nearly identically restored main temples of Plaosan. Each has carvings from the Ramayana, and rooms containing female Bottisattiva. You can either walk or drive here from Prambanan, and you may feel you’ll enjoy it more here, as Plaosan has far fewer tourists, so you can be alone with the remains of the temples, a welcome respite from the hoards at nearby Borobudur. The site begs for restoration, but carries a wonderful aura nevertheless. The Plaosan complex may be found at GPS S07°44.493’  E110°30.255’

Prambanan Hindu Temples in Central Java

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 23•10

One of the lesser Prambanan temples adjacent to Candi Shiva Mahadeva

Prambanan is a significant temple complex that contains over 240 temples, 16 of which stand in the central courtyard. Built in the 9th century ACE, they weren’t formally excavated until the late 1930s. The best known of these temples is the magnificent Candi Shiva Mahadeva, standing more than 150 feet high, and sporting numerous carvings depicting scenes in the life of Lord Rama. The story unfolds chronologically when you ascend the eastern stair case, then work your way around the temple clockwise. 

The entrance to Candi Shiva Mahadeva can be found at GPS S07°45.117’  E110°29.453’ The Prambanan temples are 20 km from Jogjakarta, and 3km from the neighboring temple complex of Plaosan, which should be visited on the same trip.

Borobudur, Indonesia’s World Heritage Site in Central Java

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 23•10

In our opinion, a visit to the ancient temple of Borobudur on the island of Java is worth a trip to Indonesia in itself.  It’s on a par with any temple complex in SE Asia, as compelling as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, or Burma’s Bagan.  Built between 700 and 800 ACE, it consists of some 60,000 cubic meters of stone, consisting of over 2,000,000 blocks. The temple boasts 3 circular terraces sitting on a base of 7 square terraces. On these terraces sit more than 500 Buddha images and over 1,600 bas relief panels. The beautiful, colorful sandstone reliefs on the third level are one of the highlights not to be missed. Because the hawkers begin around 10 am, it is recommended to get to the temple early, while you’ll still have some of the best of it to yourself. 

The small Museum Karmawibhangaa, on site at GPS S07°36.284’  E110°12.278′ ,  is filled with elements related to restoration efforts, including tools, photographs, and carvings.

We also found the Museum Kapal at GPS S07°36.303’  E110°12.981′ to be well worth a visit. It houses a seagoing vessel recreated from a relief at Borobudur (panel 6, gallery 1, northern side) that was reconstructed by a team led by As’ad Abdullah, Philip Beale, and Nick Burningham. It was eventually sailed to trace the Cinnamon Route from Indonesia, to Madagascar, to Cape Town, to Ghana. In Ghana, it was taken apart and shipped back to Borobudur, where it has been reassembled, and sits in the museum. 

To get there, we strongly recommend hiring a car and driver, who can also take you to other interesting sites in the area, including the Mendut Temple, a few km east of Borobudur. If you don’t hire a car, it’s 45 minutes by bus from Jogjakarta.

Mendut Temple (Candi Mendut) in Central Java, Indonesia

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 23•10

Located 3.5 km from Borobudur at GPS S07°36.283’  E110°13.792′ , Mendut Temple is said to hold the most visually significant in situ Buddha statue in Java, roughly 9 feet tall, sitting, and flanked by Bodhisattivas. The external carvings on the temple are outstanding as well.

Gedung Songo Temples in Central Java

Written By: herbrunbridge - May• 23•10

There are nine small Hindu temples in the Gedung Songo (also known as Gedong Songo)complex, and they are worth a visit as part of a day trip from Jogjakarta, which could also encompass Borobudur Temple and the Locomotive Museum at Ambarawa. They were built in the 8th and 9th centuries, and have been somewhat restored. Although the architecture pales in comparison with Borobudur, the views on a clear day are stunning, with Gunung Merapi’s ever-present plume as a backdrop. 

Best views are generally in the morning, before the mists develop. Gedung Songo is located 5 km from Bandungan. Its parking lot is at GPS S07°12.611’  E110°20.528′