The sharper edge to traveling in Asia

Thailand’s elephants: making paper from poop

Written By: herbrunbridge - Feb• 03•11

Thailand's 4-footed paper factory

Your WoWasis research team has uncovered a new way of making paper, and elephant dung provides the material. Taking a tour or trekking by elephant has been a favorite of western travelers to Thailand for decades. These sure-footed, gracious, and well-tempered animals can take you on a ½ hour to 1 hour walk through the countryside at many places in Thailand. Morning is best, as mahouts are generally leery of taking elephants out in the heat of the afternoon. If you happen to take a tour on the River Kwai through Kanchanaburi, you may encounter the Saiyok Elephant Park 50 km distant, where you can ride for 300 baht per half-hour, or 600 baht per hour. 

The mahouts don’t speak English, but here’s what they’d tell you if they did: 

1)      Elephants eat 10% of their body weight, daily.
2)      Their food comes from four sources: pineapple leaves, pineapple husks, sugar cane, and banana plants.
3)      They poop prodigiously, and their dung is collected by massive trucks, which unload at paper factories…
4)      … where elephant dung is made into paper and paper products. At the elephant park, you can even buy a picture fame made from elephant poop. And it doesn’t smell, either. 

Saiyok Elephant Park
30/2 Moo 3
Baanlumsum Saiyok
Kanchanaburi, Thailand
Open 9 am – 4 pm
Tel (034) 591-255
www.elephantpark.com

The Good Manner: Help, my girlfriend’s a phone freak!

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 28•11

The Good Manner: Advice on Thailand from WoWasis’ Pa Farang
This week’s dilemma: My girlfriend’s a Phone Freak 

Dear Pa Farang, 

My Thai girlfriend and I have been living together for over one year now, and I just can’t seem to break her of the habit of carrying a mobile phone constantly, and answering it at all  hours, texting, you name it.  What has become especially disturbing to me is the fact that sometimes she’ll look at the number calling her, and arbitrarily refuse to answer it.  I’ve started to wonder if she’s got another boyfriend out there, but I’m loathe to confront her.  I’ve been considering asking her to give up her phone.  What’s your take on this? 

–  Worried about my future wife 

Dear Worried, 

The way I see it, you’ve got one of two situations going on here, one good, the other bad.  Or maybe not so bad, so bear me out.  You can take the telephone away from the Thai girl, but you can’t take the Thai girl away from the telephone.  Simply put, the Thai girl is wedded to her phone from birth. If you take it away from her, she’ll probably get another one, and hide it from you (“phone belong to my sister/friend/boss, etc”).  

In the first scenario I alluded to above, she doesn’t have anyone else, but likes the sanuk (fun) factor of staying in touch with friends.  Around you, she just may elect, once seeing who’s calling, of not disturbing her time with you.  In the second scenario, she may have another boyfriend, who could be local, or international, a friend from overseas who makes periodic visits.  If so — and here I anticipate your concern about her having relations with that person — she may be engaged in activities that go beyond an  occasional tete-a-tete.  If that is the case, you’ve got to ask yourself if she’s worth keeping on that basis.  Perhaps she is.  By living with you, she’s thrown her lot in with you, which means the other fellow doesn’t occupy the primacy in her life that you do.  If you love her, giving her the heave-ho could put her into the arms of another who she may not like as much as she likes you.  

I’m going to suggest that you show The Good Manner by telling her of your concern, mentioning that you consider her your future, and telling her of your concerns.  She’ll deny everything, of course, but your questions will put her on high alert that the relationship she values is in potential jeopardy.  At the same time, engage in some critical self-analysis.  Are you spending enough time with her?  Does she suspect you of occasional dalliances as well?  Thai women are extremely protective of their primary (or only) relationships, and my guess is that she’ll appreciate the concern.  If, however, you find that your concerns only accelerate, you’ve got to ask yourself the question: better off with her, or without her?  Pa Farang recognizes that relationships take on many colors,  and sometimes it’s a matter of preferring the devil you know to the devil you don’t. 

Marayat dee, 
– Pa Farang 

Read Pa Farang’s other columns in WoWasis for more advice on relationships and cultural matters in Southeast Asia

Thai television soap operas… not always the Good Manner

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 28•11

If you watch any amount of television at all in Thailand, you’re bound to run into a Thai soap opera.  And even if you don’t speak Thai, you’ll be able to distinguish the heroes form the villains, due to the success of these extremely formulaic dramas. Here at WoWasis, we think they’re worth an occasional view, as they underscore and illustrate the Thai concept of good and evil, and serve as both an educative and entertainment purpose. 

Essentially, the dramas focus on the conflict between the heroine (nang ek), and the villainess (nang rai). Nang ek is sweet, attentive to family, children, and her elders.   Her essential  nobility is underscored by her adherence to correct social manners and grace under the onslaught of Nang rai.  In contrast to nang rai, namg ek desires harmony, rather than a pursuit of financial fortune, and is a good Buddhist. 

Without a suitably nasty villain, people simply won’t sit through a drama.  Nang rai are the parts, virtually every actress in Thailand is dying to play, even those who achieved fame in playing the nang ek role in other dramas.  Their main function in life is to create misery for the heroine by stealing her boyfriend, bearing false witness, turning friends and family against nang ek. They are outspoken, severely goal-oriented and frequently are shown to have chosen career over family.  Eventually, they will meet tragic ends, unless they make an about-face and sincerely and publicly apologize for their deeds.  Classic endings for nang ek include death, insanity, public humiliation, or arrest. 

Nang rai roles have given longer life to the careers of middle-aged Thai actresses, as older nang rai commonly evidence a life-long history of scheming.  Ladyboys are also favorite villainesses, generally portrayed as two-faced and slaves to the trendy. 

Acting is superb in these dramas, and we’ve found it enjoyable to take an occasional ten-minute peek to see what terror the latest nang rai is spreading.  You don’t even have to turn on the TV yourself, just walk down the street.  When a favorite soap opera is on, scores of stall girls, shopkeepers, and businesspeople watching a streetside TV will have one eye on you, and the other on the nang rai.

Museum & soapy massage the same day: a must for Bangkok museum-goers?

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 27•11

Suan Pakkad Palace

Over the past several months, veteran Bangkok museum-goers have been raving to WoWasis about a museum experience that might be unique to Bangkok: a morning visit to a museum, followed by an afternoon soapy body-to-body massage. This occurs because the venerated Suan Pakkad Museum and the Chao Phya 2 soapy massage parlor are a mere eight minute walking distance from each other. The museum itself is a 2 minute walk from the Phaya Thai BTS skytrain station, making this unique experience logistically facile.

The Suan Pakkad Museum boasts a fine ceramics collection among a group of stately old Thai houses. The Chao Phya offers a two-hour soapy for 2000 baht.

Museum enthusiasts have complained for years about the aching feet and stiff necks particular to the museum experience. Our readers are telling us that Bangkok has perhaps the word’s best solution for the problem, a same-day soapy. Visit the individual WoWasis soapy massage and Suan Pakkad Museum pages for more information on each experience. And enjoy your museum day in Bangkok.

Bangkok’s soapy massage spa experience: who they serve and where they are

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 27•11

Chao Phya 2 on Bangkok’s Thanon Sri Ayutthaya

Bangkok’s multistory standalone soapy spas have parking lots, and often have full service bars and karaoke lounges, unlike most smaller Storefront Spas.  They occasionally have curtained-off individualized carports to ensure privacy.  Many of these establishments will offer masseuses providing different massage services, at varying price points.  Spa management have indicated to WoWasis researchers that their clients include men, women, and couples. Couples will be expected to avail themselves of the services of two masseuses. Services and prices vary, but the entire massage process doesn’t vary all that much from spa to spa. Standalone spas are often located in clusters of adjacent spas, providing the customer with several choices within an easy walking area.  Two of the more popular areas for Standalone Spas are located on Sri Ayuttahaya and Ratchadaphisek roads, easily accessible by BTS Skytrain and MRT subway, respectively.

Selected Soapy Massage Spas
Common spa-related terms include:

  • Body-to-body (BTB) massage: This generally occurs on a pool-size rubber air mattress, adjacent to the large bathtub, either by “soapy” or “oily” massage.
  • Thai massage (TM): Standard Thai massage, utilizing traditional techniques.
  • Hand massage (HM): Massage using hands only.
  • VIP: No massage, erotic service only.

The following soapy spas are categorized into two geographical areas within Bangkok:

 
 

Phaya Thai-Sri Ayutthaya area.  The following spas are located within a half kilometer walking distance from the BTS Phaya Thai station.

J-One (Chao Phya 1) (This business has closed, but remains listed for archival purposes)
Sri Ayuttaya Road
GPS: N13°45.393’  E100°32.322’
Offering BTB massage for 2,500 baht, 2 hours.  Best selection of masseuses occurs after 6 pm.

Chao Phya 2 (Chao Phraya 2)
537 Sri Ayuttaya Road
Tel: 02-455-7403
GPS: N13°45.393’  E100°32.466’
Open 12 noon – 11:30 pm
Offering VIP 2,000 baht, BTB 1900 baht, HM 1700 baht, all at 2 hours.

Ratchadaphisek area.   The following spas are located within a half kilometer walking distance south of the MRT Hway Kwang subway station (Exit 3), along the western side of Thanon Ratchadaphisek. 

Ratchada Thai Massage
167/3-66 Ratchadaphisek Road
Tel: 02-276-8546
GPS: N13°46.637’  E100°34.403’
Open 12 pm – 12 am
Offering  TM, 300 baht for 2 hours; Oil massage, 800 baht for 2 hours

Emanuelle Health Spa & Entertainment Club
55 Ratchadaphisek Road
Tel: 02-275-7474
GPS: N13°46.598’  E100°34.401’
Open 2 pm – 12 am
Offering  BTB, 2500 baht for 2 hours.  Most masseuses arrive after 6pm.

Nataree Massage Karaoke (This business has closed, but remains listed for archival purposes)
167/17-20 Ratchadaphisek Road
Tel: 02-692-9144
GPS: N13°46.588’  E100°34.400’
Open 12 pm – 12 am
Offering  BTB, 2000 baht for 2 hours; Also Sideline (2600) and VIP 3200) BTB.  Nataree has more working masseuses at any given time than any Men’s Spa in the area, due to the fact that masseuses are able to come and go as they please, without having to pay a “fine” to management.

Subway Thai Massage
167/23-24 Ratchadaphisek Road
Tel: 02-692-8105
GPS: N13°46.556’  E100°34.403’
Open 12 pm – 12 am
Offering  TM, 400 baht for 2 hours, also a Sauna room

Caesar’s Entertainment Complex
Ratchadaphisek Road (directly across the street from Nataree, exit 2 at MRT station)
GPS: N13°46.638’  E100°34.423’
Here, BTB is 3,000 for 2 hours, 4,000 baht for VIP @ 1.5 hours.  Best selection after 6 pm.

Petchaburi/Sukhumvit Soi 3 area:

Cupidy Massage (basement of Plaza Entertainment Complex)
1543/1-5 New Petchaburi Road
Tel: 0253-15024
Open noon to midnight
Soapy price 2500 to 3000 baht, depending on the masseuse chosen
Cupidy occupies the basement of the Plaza Entertainment Complex at the corner of Kamphaeng Phet Road and Sukhumvit Soi 3.

It’s not easy to find, but here’s the easiest way we’ve found: Take the MRT subway to Phetchaburi station. Depart from Exit 3. Walk north on Rama IX for one block and you’ll be at the corner of Kampang Phet. You’ll want to take a taxi left (west) down that street. If you take the taxi directly to Cupidy, the driver will bargain a commission from Cupidy when he arrives, and you’ll be charged more for a soapy to pay for his commission. Instead, we recommend that you ask your taxi driver to drop you off at the Mercure Bangkok Makkasan Hotel, which is a one minute walk from Cupidy. Walk there yourself down the Plaza’s driveway, and Cupidy is located to the right next to the plaza’s garage.

PC Air’s ladyboys to be Thailand’s queens of the skies

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 27•11

Khun Thanyarat (center), beauty queen and flight attendant

Freshly-minted Thai regional airline PCAir won’t make its first flight for several months yet, but here at WoWasis, we applaud them for staffing up with ladyboys in its effort to have a diversified work crew. Perhaps the highest profile ladyboy hired so far is Miss Tiffany Universe 2007 winner Thanyarat Jirapatpakorn. The Bangkok Post notes that of the 30 crew hired so far, 3 are transgender. While ladyboys are ubiquitous in Thailand and work for scores of companies in public-facing capacities, it’s unusual for a company to make a public policy statement on hiring them, as PC Air has done. 

PC Air intends to make its inaugural flight in March, 2011, but has yet to make its routing and schedule public.

Bangkok’s Suan Pakkad Palace Museum: traditional houses and Ban Chiang pottery

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 27•11

Lacquer House, Suan Pakkad Palace, Bangkok

WoWasis is always looking for interesting museums that aren’t always well-touristed. The wonderful Suan Pakkad Palace museum is one of these, located just a few steps east of Exit 4 at the Phaya Thai BTS station, houses a nice collection of artifacts in a “palace” setting of old Thai teak homes.  Eight separate houses contain the collection amassed by Prince Chumbot Paribatra of Hagor Svarga, a grandson of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and Princess Paribatra.  

Houses 1 through 4 were acquired and moved to the property in 1952, while the others, including the spectacular Lacquer pavilion, arrived later.  Highlights of the museum include the houses and garden, a welcome respite from Bangkok’s cityscape, the prehistoric pottery and jewelry collection from Ban Chiang village, which flourished from 3000 to 5600 years ago, and the ceramics collection in House 7.   The lower floor in House 1 features an amazing collection of Thai musical instruments. 

Most visitors, though, come here to see the charming Lacquer Pavilion, moved here from upriver in 1959 with the presiding abbot’s permission, in a state of disrepair.   The well-restored pavilion features mural paintings of gold on black lacquer.   

Suan Pakkad Palace
352-354 Sri Ayuttahaya Road
Bangkok 10400
BTS Phaya Thai, Take Exit 4. Turn right on Sri Ayutthaya, Suan Pakkad is a two minute walk from the corner.
Tel: 02-245-4934
Open: Daily, 9 am – 4 pm
www.suanpakkad.com
GPS: N13°45.434’  E100°32.269’

In Bangkok’s electric showers, death is quicker than the electric chair!

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 25•11

Ready for a "hot" shower?

Earlier this year, WoWasis reported on a deadly shower stall in the Philippines, but one we recently encountered in Bangkok certainly competes!  This Thai shower features an electric heating unit with the insulating cover removed from the control box, leaving all the wires and electrical stuff exposed to water and humans. There’s even a Buddhist garland hanging from the device, to help usher the user to the next world. According to what we’ve read, the electric chair was given the boot by correctional authorities because it took too long to kill people. With a wet floor as a fabulous ground and no cover on the water temp controls, our bet is that electric showers like the one shown in this photo might soon be the impatient executioner’s preference.

All the "juice" you'll ever need, at no additional cost to the taxpayer

This shower was found in a Bangkok go-go bar, giving a whole new meaning to the sobriquet “an electric performer.” And who said go-go dancing wasn’t a dangerous profession?

Bangkok’s streetside sewing & shoe repair: good quality, great price, and close!

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 25•11

Quite a few visitors to Thailand have told us here at WoWasis  that they like the quality and price of streetside shoe repair and sewing so much that they actually bring their shoes and clothes from home to be repaired here. It’s cheaper than repair in their own countries, or buying new. 

In all Thai cities and towns, one-person streetside repair stalls do it all, do it well, and do it cheaply. Sewing machines are of the foot pedal variety. Electricity is not a necessity, although it can always be cadged from the power line above. And these stalls are all over, rarely is a streetside repair stall more than a block or two away.

Best lunch and dinner counter in Bangkok: Took Lae Dee at Foodland Market

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 24•11

Here at WoWasis, there are times we want a quick, inexpensive, and good meal, and for a second get away from the exhaust fumes and heat that can be part of the sidewalk dining experience in the Land of Smiles. 

Took Lae Dee (“Cheap and Good”), a lunch and dinner counter at our nearby Foodland Market on Sukhumvit Soi 5 in Bangkok, is the best we’ve visited.  It’s air conditioned, and the food is terrific. How about a wonderful tam yum gung (spicy shrimp soup) and a khao pet gai (chicken friedrice) for a total of 175 baht ($6 USD)? They have 53 items on the menu, including an American Breakfast for 62 baht ($2 USD), and they serve beer, too. There are 10 Took Lae Dees in the greater Bangkok area, including two on Sukhumvit (Sois 5 and 16). 

If you’ve got a favorite lunch counter in Asia, let us know!