The sharper edge to traveling in Asia

Touring Bangkok’s Klong Toey slums: an experience you can’t afford to miss

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 17•14

KlongToeyBumperAnimals1dBook the Explore! Klong Toey Slums of Bangkok tour here. 

Bangkok is a city of 13 million people, and a significant part of her labor pool lives in the slum neighborhood of Klong Toey.  In the West, we tend to see the word “slum” in pejorative terms, but here, its encoded into the Thai language (pronounce it “sal-UM”).  Klong Toey began its life as a squatter settlement lived in by laborers building Bangkok’s port. It wasn’t officially part of Bangkok’s municipal government. Today, it has a reputation for crime and poverty, but tour it, and one quickly sees that there’s far more underlying its surface. It’s not easy to tour it, though, especially as a westerner. Until now.

Klong Toey kindergarteners learning English at the Duang Prateep Foundation

Klong Toey kindergarteners learning English at the Duang Prateep Foundation

The “Explore! Klong Toey Slums of Bangkok” tour takes half a day, and is probably the only way that most visitors will be able to get inside the tiny communities that lie behind the main streets. Westerners proceeding on their own though the back streets may be viewed as drug-seekers, fodder for robbery, or, at best, perhaps one of those occasional farang that actually lives there, in violation of the time allotment of their visas, living an underground existence. Such individuals typically have a Thai partner and perhaps a child, and are hosted on a permanent basis by the girlfriend’s family.

Western visitors taking the Klong Toey Slums tour are led by a known local, who will guide them safely in and out of the community. Philosophically, the tour is really two sides of a societal coin. It begins with an investigation into the solution to squatter settlement needs, and continues into the community itself. It’s the most fascinating tour we’ve ever taken in Bangkok.

The tour begins at the Duang Pradeep Foundation, an amazing non-religious, non-governmental organization, begun in 1978, that has educated thousands of Klong Toey school kids from kindergarten through high school (today, there are 210 kindergarteners at school all day, learning educational and hygienic basics and having a healthy lunch while their parents are at work).

Alley cuisine in the back streets of Bangkok's Klong Toey district

Alley cuisine in the back streets of Bangkok’s Klong Toey district

After meeting the workers and children at Duang Prateep, the visitor walks a few blocks, makes a turn down an alley (called a “lock”), and enters the community. Here are tiny houses built of found materials, colored by paint and posters, and festooned with ribbons made out of cut-up magazine ads. Living is close, and there’s no space wasted; here are three coin operated washing machines chained together, allowing just enough space for a pedestrian to squeeze by someone doing the laundry; further on, a busy food stall grows out of someone’s living room. Everywhere is color, the entire community consisting of a riot of hues, shapes, and patterns provided by design or accident.

Upon leaving, the visitor may be faced with a number of conflicting thoughts regarding the conception of poverty. Newspapers are full of tales leading back to crimes taking place in Klong Toey. To those who haven’t been there, the slum community might seem to represent a dark urban cave into which one descends, rather than walks, to find a Casbah-like warren of alleys that allows easy entrance, but a more problematic return.   

The Explore! Klong Toey Slums Of Bangkok tour unveils instead a fantastic, colorful world with its own set of truths, and falsities, a vibrant, yet still developing community adjacent to, yet completely hidden from “tourist Bangkok.” This is, in the opinion of those of us here at WoWasis, the one tour you can’t afford to miss. Book the Explore! Klong Toey Slums of Bangkok tour here. 

WoWasis tours Unknown Bangkok and the Thonburi Klongs

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 16•14

Demons at Wat Arun

Demons at Wat Arun

If you’re like us, you just get those days where you want to see a half day of great stuff, get on the water a bit, then spend the rest of the afternoon having a beer and beating the heat. We just finished taking a tour in Bangkok that gave us just that. The Unknown Bangkok and Thonburi  Klongs (klongs are Thai canals) tour packs a lot of varied and great material into half a day. The activities began at the Chinatown flower market, where wholesalers and individuals alike buy flowers for Buddha, for lovers, for congratulations, and for the dead. The colors are extraordinary, the sellers — like seemingly all vendors in Bangkok — colorful and picturesque in themselves. Anyone’s greatest photo essay ever could be done here in one hour.

Traditional houses line the banks of the Thonburi klongs

Traditional houses line the banks of the Thonburi klongs

The next stop was just a short tuk-tuk ride away to the fruit and vegetable market, which leads the way to the ferry that crosses the Chao Phraya to Wat Arun.

Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) has long been our favorite in Bangkok, with its multiple tiers featuring colorful demons, hanuman monkey people, and warriors. Their highlights are crafted out of colorful ceramic, and you’ll want to time your visit for the morning or late afternoon to catch the sun at the right angle, and which will cause the colors to explode in a riot of color. The Wat Arun Ubisot, adjacent to the north, is a magnificent structure itself in which ordinations are held. You’ll need to go inside to see the murals, among the most intricate in Bangkok. It’s worth taking a half-hour or so to look them over, but be advised that the Ubisot is closed on weekends. 

We wanted the magnificence of Wat Arun and the Ubisot to stay with us for a while, so the 40 minute ride through the klongs at Thonburi  came at a perfect time. The long-tailed boat took us through the Mon and Chak Phra canals, past old Bangkok homes with laundry hanging from their railings, numerous other buildings, and in sight of one monstrously large komodo dragon lizard. Every visitor in Bangkok should experience this riverine world, and seeing it from a long-tailed boat is in many ways much more enjoyable and relaxing that dealing with the bustle inherent in Klong San Sap canal taxis. This boat ride takes you past the site of the weekend floating market, and ends up at the Royal Barges Museum, closed for renovation now, but due to be reopened soon.

This half day tour seemed to have a bit of everything: flower and vegetable markets, an amazing temple, and a fascinating forty minute glimpse of Bangkok’s canal life, complete with mini-dinosaur. And it left the afternoon open for several choices: grab a beer, meander through a crafts market, get a massage at Wat Pho, or take a siesta before a night on the town. Book a tour to see Unknown Bangkok and Thonburi Klongs.

WoWasis visits Bangkok’s Calypso Cabaret ladyboy show

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 14•14

CalypsoFloorShow1dBangkok’s famous Calypso Cabaret has just passed its 25th anniversary, and is now located at the Asiatique complex on the Chao Phraya river, having moved from its longtime theatre located in the Asia Hotel at BTS Ratchatewi. The new neighborhood is decidedly more commercial, as is the show, which is suited for all ages. There were many children in the audience at the show we attended, and sure enough, there were no risque jokes told, sexual innuendos made, nor breasts bared.  

CalypsogirlYellow1cWhat Calypso offers is a tightly paced and well-choreographed revue. The costume changes work like clockwork, and they’d better, as we counted fourteen vignettes in the 90 minute show. Our favorite piece was a slow Japanese ballad sung against a lovely but simple backdrop, and we swore the singer actually sang it, rather than lip-synching. Unfortunately, no one at the exit spoke English, so there was no confirmation or denial.

The show is ideally suited for those who’ve never seen a ladyboy performance. Bangkok’s ladyboys  are legendary in many ways, and those who have seen performers such as Boston’s Sylvia Sydney or San Francisco’s Charles Pierce will probably want something stronger in terms of humor that what they’ll get at Calypso.  Calypso is most decidedly a show, rather than a nightclub act. Several of its performance components are operatic in their conception and costume changes. This is an entertaining show that will appeal to just about everyone and will never get busted for nudism or lewd behavior , and it’s held at the benign Asiatique on the river. For those wanting a more personal ladyboy experience that gets away from showbiz, we recommend going to a ladyboy bar at Nana Plaza on Sukhumvit.  For fun, great choreography, and a touch of vaudeville, we recommend Calypso. After the show, the girls line up for pictures, and tips are appreciated. Book your Calypso Cabaret show seats here.

WoWasis book review: John Cadet’s ‘Occidental Adam, Oriental Eve’

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 12•14

CadetOrientaladam_coverIf you’re fortunate enough to find one of John M. Cadet’s old books in a used bookstore, you’re in for a treat. His fiction, mostly centered in Thailand, is clearly about another time, although not necessarily a less innocent one. Occidental Adam, Oriental Eve (1981) is, like Venusberg Revisited (which WoWasis reviewed a while back), a collection of short stories, published by Cadet’s Charles Browne Publications.  This book consists of ten short stories, displaying Cadet’s taste for irony, humor, and insight.

There’s a lot to like in the book.  ‘Traveller’s Tale,’ for instance, is a wonderful take on the thought process of someone who can’t tell a simple story of a travel experience, and instead must run on. And on. And on (everyone has met one, and we live in constant dread that occasionally we might cross that line as well).  Cadet, who wrote for Bangkok World and taught literature, is best when exploring the psychology of his characters, whether they’re stealing black lace panties, stiffing a buddy on travel expenses, or in the act of dying of a shark attack. Of the latter situation, as skillfully described in ‘Mr. Pandu’s Quarter Hour,’ Cadet sets the mentality of the fated protagonist early on:

He was the central and controlling force in the office, no doubt about that.  His eyes — those round buttons that always seemed to slide downwards, sideways under pressure — never failed to take in the significant detail around him: the state of the messenger’s shoes,  the length of a teller’s hair, another badge in Mr. Sombat’s lapel. Because these were facts, details, details, items of information he could accumulate and use, whereas friendship, confidences, any attempts at human contact were things he had no time for and was quick to discourage.  Let anyone come to him expecting to be helped and Mr. Pandu would lower his eyes, swivel them from side to side, smile most amiably and allow the moment to bleed itself of living significance.

ThailandPromoBannerIt seems that Cadet wrote only three books, these two collections of short stories and The Ramakien, his discussion of the Ramayana classic mythological tale. We would love to encounter more, if there are any, and will continue hitting those used bookstore in hope that one day something else will turn up. His short stories are a treat, located in a Thailand that in some ways has changed significantly in the thirty years since they were written, and in other ways, somehow not so much at all.

Bangkok to be shut down Monday: another coup coming?

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 09•14

Courtesy Jeff Jarvis

Courtesy Jeff Jarvis

Although the major media appears reluctant to discuss it, Thailand may be in store for yet another government coup d’etat within days. All the signs seem to be leading to it, and it’s understandable that the media would be reluctant to fan the flames of revolt. Nevertheless, the situation could be ripe as events march forward to a citywide shutdown of Bangkok on Monday, January 12. As always in the Land of Smiles, it’s challenging sorting through rumor and innuendo, so we’ll just give you the WoWasis analysis, as simple as we can make it, given the complexity of the matter and the personalities involved. Here’s a précis as culled from major media:

1)      The “Caretaker government” is led by ousted Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s sister Yingluck. A national election is scheduled for February 2nd. One possible outcome is that Yingluck could be returned to power. Her allies, to a great extent, consist of those from the lower economic classes, many of whom are from northeastern Thailand.

2)      The opposition group, the PDRC (People’s Democratic reform Committee), intends on Monday, January 12,  to shut down as many major thoroughfares in Bangkok as possible, including Asok-Sukhumvit, Lumpini, Ratchaprasong, and many others. The shut down is a protest against the upcoming elections. Protest leaders, including former Deputy PM Suthep Thaugsuban and former PM Abhisit Vejjajiva, insist instead that Yingluck resign. The power base of the PDRC includes many middle and upper class Thais.

3)      Caretaker Deputy Defense Minister Yuthasak Sasiprapa, as was stated in the Bangkok Post of January 9, “seemed reluctant to rule out the possibility of a military coup.” The Post goes on to report that General Yuthasak will be meeting with army chief Prayuth Chan-ocha on the Monday of the protest.

ThailandPromoBannerWhat could push the Caretaker government over the edge? Among other things, if the protest turned violent or lasted more than a couple of days. As either event might bring the city to its knees economically, an excuse for a coup would be readily available. Might it be a case of Bangkok’s Reichstag aflame?

Bangkok’s transportation infrastructure will be tested on Monday. The Klong San Sap canal boats are expected to increase the number of passengers from  60,000 to 100,000, twenty round trips are being added daily to the Chao Phraya river taxis, and the Transport Ministry is opening up 18,000 parking spots, although it’s anyone’s guess as to how anyone will be able to get to them.       

They key, from our perspective, is whether the protests turn violent. If they do, one underlying question may soon surface, namely whether, or to what degree, agents provocateurs were involved in creating the events that led to Thailand’s latest coup.

WoWasis book review: ‘I-Boat Captain,’ by Zenji Orita with Joseph Harrington

Written By: herbrunbridge - Jan• 05•14

i-BoatCaptainWe first became aware of Japanese submariner Zenji Orita  in author Joseph D. Harrington’s book Yankee Samurai: the Secret Role of Nisei in America’s Pacific Victory (1979), which sent us scurrying to find Orita’s book I-Boat Captain: How Japanese Submarines Almost Defeated the U.S. Navy in the Pacific (1976). The book is alternately chilling and fascinating, as it points out that will a little more planning and strategic awareness, Japan could have inflicted greater losses on allied naval craft. Instead, as Orita discusses, submarines were eventually mostly used to transport troops and supplies, and were increasingly sunk by U.S. destroyers as their shipping lanes became more predictable.

Orita’s story of rising through the ranks provides a wonderful glimpse into the Japanese navy, but it’s hard to root for him. He was gung-ho on the Japanese war effort, beginning with his belief that the conquest of Manchuria was justified, likening it to U.S. manifest destiny. He relates the fate of the Chinese to that of the Native American, giving no regard to the privations at Nanking, as documented by Iris Chang, among others.

AsiaPromoBannerThat said, however, the book’s a good read. Orita attacked the U.S. mainland, and his description of that event is memorable. The minutiae of submarine life is well-documented including the fact that olfactory senses were challenged by facts such as showers were allowed only every three days and underwear washed every five. Submariners were under constant threat of having electrical and fuel systems damaged by depth charges, which could potentially suffocate their crews by exposure to diesel fumes. Of particular interest are the passages relating to suicidal kaiten pilots, who rode one-man submarines to their deaths, inflicting serious damage to U.S. ships in the process. Orita masterfully provides descriptions of these vessels as well as sobering tributes to the men that piloted them.

Overall, the reader is left with a terrific analysis of Japanese thinking and practice as it relates to submarine warfare in the second World War, and perhaps an improved appreciation for the value of sonar as a critical asset to the allied powers in the Pacific theatre of operations.

WoWasis book review: Ron McMillan’s ‘Bangkok Cowboy’

Written By: herbrunbridge - Dec• 23•13

bangkok-cowboy_160x255Today’s review is guest-written by Iain Millar.

I first met Ron McMillan in the bar at Aberdeen airport too many years ago when we were both en route to an assignment in further-north waters. Within minutes the pints were pulled, the pool balls were racked up and the tales were being spun. And if that sounds anything like the intro to a book then it might explain why, in the years since, this guy has turned his hand to writing, among other things, a couple of high-octane, hard-boiled, crime thrillers, the latest of which, Bangkok Cowboy, is good enough to have made me miss my stop on the train home three times in the last week.The plotting is hot, the characters now feel like people I know and the descriptions of the Thai capital – the noise, the streets, the food and, of course, the lowlife – are as good as a virtual immersion can be. It would a great screaming spoiler to give away the relationship and the personal details of the two principles, Mason and Dixie, save to say that they’re an odd couple in the absolutely unexpected, best sense of that epithet.

As it says on the tin – or, rather, in the blurb: “Two days after private eye Mason sees a drunken Australian kicked to death in Bangkok’s notorious Soi Cowboy, he is approached by one of the men involved. Mobster Raymond Long owns nightclubs on the seedy sex strip and wants Mason to find his American accountant, who has disappeared, taking with her a computer hard drive. Mason is about to turn him down, when he realizes the missing accountant is his friend, Nathalie…”

Why Nathalie was even working for a bottom-feeder like Long is, of course, part of the mystery, along with what is on the missing hard drive. The motivations of Long, Mason – and Nathalie – seem clear cut at first glance but the twists keep coming at a pace to keep the crime aficionados alert and on their toes.

That Mason and Dixie have their lethal moments is expected and McMillan dishes out the violence with skill, thrills and the right amount of restraint – i.e. not much – but never without good reason (it’s not for shrinking violets but they’re probably not reading this anyway). Full disclosure requires me to declare the author as a friend, so my loyalty is (mostly!) unqualified. But my professional respect has shot up a fair few notches. More Mason and Dixie books soon, please, Ron. The first one is highly recommended.

Iain Millar is a London-based freelance journalist who has written for The Independent on Sunday, Bloomberg and The Art Newspaper among many others.

Bangkok Cowboy is available in electronic form only, and can be downloaded from any Amazon site worldwide. You can buy it here from Amazon right now. For those who do not own a Kindle, Amazon offers a free ‘Kindle Reader’ app for Apple, PC, iPad, iPhone and Android smartphones and tablets. The free Kindle Reader App can be downloaded here: 


WoWasis book review: Stephen Leather’s ‘Hungry Ghost’ from Hong Kong

Written By: herbrunbridge - Dec• 17•13

LeatherHungryGhost1aStephen Leather never ceases to tantalize us. It’s not just the vicious murderers or the fetching murderesses, either. Hungry Ghost (ISBN 978-0-340-96072-1), originally published in 1992 and re-released in 2008, is replete with all the cerebral stuff we’ve grown to expect from the author. His “no stones unturned” approach is something we figure he picked up from his years as a journalist in Hong Kong, which serves him extremely well in this book. His descriptions of what goes on inside the Hong Kong police department and the triads contribute to the compelling cultural feel of this thriller. We liked one of the murderers, too.

The story involves a rogue plot by British operatives to change the timing of the handing over of HK to China. The plot goes horribly wrong, leaving the police, the triad, the Chinese government, and British and American undercover operations all vying to fix the mess. From our perspective here at WoWasis, the most delicious part of the book recounts a secret triad meeting. It runs seven pages and it’s fascinating. The author told us he mined the data from a friend working for the Hong Kong Police, and we recommend that passage for anyone interested in the triad culture.

This 450 page book is thrilling from beginning to end, with Leather’s well-known plot twists and changing affiliations. The reader alternately roots for the good guys, the bad guys, and the questionable guys. At the end, the reader is left to determine, when the dust has cleared, who was right and who was wrong. And we think you’ll fall in love with one of the murderers, too. Buy it here at the WoWasis eStore.

Bachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on why you should NOT sleep with Thai women

Written By: herbrunbridge - Nov• 17•13

BachBKKLKee1cBachelor in Bangkok: Khun Lee on why you should NOT sleep with Thai women

When I first lived in Paradise 8 years ago I made a lot of mistakes, the most noteworthy of these was exhibiting a total lack of discipline when it came to sleeping around.  Now, I know my nickname is Khun Nana and everyone knows I am a dog amongst dogs, but the reality of living here is that there are times and situations where it’s better just to walk away from the opportunity and live to cat around another day.  My first 2 years here I bagged pretty much every hot gal I bumped into, and the day came that it was uncomfortable for me to go to many of my favorite places.  Here is a short list derived from my numerous indiscretions and the resulting difficulties that ensued:

1 )Nailed 2 gals at my fitness club (one member and one staff) and no one said hello or acted friendly to me there afterward. This was quite costly to me as my daily workouts and socializing at the club was something I looked forward to each morning.

2 )Nailed the cashier at the only 7-11 (at the time it was the only one anyway) near my home and almost got hit in the back of the head by a coke bottle the next time I went in there.

3) Mistakenly bagged 2 cashiers at the only supermarket that was walking distance to my home, resulting in hushed silence and dirty looks every time I needed to go food shopping.

4) Had a very kinky night of sex with the Starbucks cashier and had to start drinking my favorite ice coffee elsewhere.  She was a vixen though!

5) Slept with the waitress at my favorite (and VERY cheap) Thai restaurant and after she turned out to be a total whacko jealous possessive she devil (with a very tight body) was scared to death to ever walk back into the place.

6) Had a lovely night of animal sex with the daughter of the lady who sold fruit in front of my apartment.  Really I should have been shot for this as that lady has the freshest fruit in town and now I have to walk on the other side of the road when I see her cart.  Man do I miss her mangoes.  Her daughter could suck a gold ball through a garden hose too.

7) Went to a party with the hello girl at my favorite Thai fast food restaurant, and let my guard down for a minute and let one of her friends give me a blowjob in the bathroom.  That damn restaurant had the best grilled chicken I have ever tasted.

8) Had sex with one of the realtors who showed me apartments when I first arrived.  This really shouldn’t have been such a problem, but when I jilted her she dumped sand in front of my door every night for a week.  I still don’t know where that damn sand came from.

9) Shagged the bartender at my favorite British Pub, and she ended up telling me that if I didn’t marry her she was going to tell everyone in the Pub that I was gay and liked little boys.  She definitely had issues.

10) I saved the worst for last.  I was invited to a wedding outside of Bangkok, and the groom arranged for a van to carry 12 or 13 of us to the ceremony which was several hundred km. away.  Fortune had it that I was the only man in the vehicle among 12 gals.  I really didn’t think this would be a big problem as sometimes I get car sick on long trips and thought my manhood would stay firmly tucked inside my pants because of this.   I couldn’t have been more wrong.  Within an hour of departing one gal fell asleep with her head on my lap.  I ended up getting an erection as she kept moving her head and body around as she slept, and when we stopped at the first of many rest stops she followed me into the men’s bathroom and proceeded to alleviate my discomfort.  I thought this was very sporting of her and was prepared to travel the remainder of the way without incident. 

The problem was that she must have told one of her friends, and when we stopped 2 hours later at the next rest stop another gal followed me into the rest room and literally sucked my cock like a popsicle.  I wasn’t really in the mood having just had an orgasm, but I hadn’t formally been introduced to this gal and felt it might be a little impolite to not cooperate.

We made it to our destination without further incident, and I told everyone I was going to rent a hotel room for myself in spite of the fact that everyone had been invited to sleep at the bride’s home.  This old bugger just ain’t sleeping on any more wooden floors.  It turned out that 3 of the gals from the van really wanted a decent night’s sleep also, so I invited all to stay with me and we slept 4 to the queen sized bed that I was given at the very inexpensive motel.  When the lights went out it was really dark in the room (man is the sky black at night when you get outside the big city) and I was looking forward to a good night’s sleep.  Imagine my shock when in the middle of the night I woke up and one of the 3 gals was sucking my cock!  She then crawled on top of me and proceeded to ravage me while staying as silent as she could.  To this day I still don’t know which of the 3 gals it was, but in the morning no one was talking to anyone else!  It really wasn’t my fault as I was only semi-conscious, but the rest of the trip was so uncomfortable that I flew back to Bangkok alone.

The moral of the story is:

Just because you can fuck ‘em all, doesn’t mean that you should!!

Read Khun Lee’s other WoWasis columns for more advice on navigating the adult dating scene through the backstreets of Bangkok

WoWasis book review: Haruki Murakami’s Japanese sci-fi novel ‘Hard-boiled Wonderland and the End of the World’

Written By: herbrunbridge - Sep• 10•13

MurakamiHardBoiledIn his sci-fi novel Hard-boiled Wonderland and the End of the World (2003, ISBN 978-0099-448-785), Japanese novelist Haruki Murakami weaves a cerebral tale of speculative fiction that explores the concept of parallel worlds. In one, a man finds himself tasked with reading the memories of previous residents of a walled town, by drawing out the information stored in animal skulls. For us here at WoWasis, the town is reminiscent of the village inhabited by actor Patrick McGoohan’s character in the old TV series ‘The Prisoner,’ where happiness is virtually guaranteed via the absence of each individual’s mind. This is accomplished by the excision of an individual’s shadow which, as it turns out, is the source of his or her memory.

The other world is a futuristic one in which two opposing political forces vie to control every facet of the life of the protagonist, whose brain has been altered to perform information processing tasks. In keeping with the theme of lost identity, the protagonist in neither world is given a name. A major reason the book carries such momentum is Murakami’s pendulum-like swings between short chapters involving each world, an effective way of keeping the reader involved with the characters in each sphere. 400 pages goes quite quickly in this book.

AsiaPromoBannerThis book will appeal to readers who wouldn’t otherwise buy a science-fiction book. There are enough stories in today’s daily papers regarding chip implanting, genetic engineering, and governmental intrusion into virtually everyone’s online data, that the futuristic world portrayed in the book isn’t really that far-fetched. In terms of human relationships, Murakami tantalizes us. Their completeness is continually thwarted by the complexity of the technologies the author has so effectively created. In essence, the book is a dual-nightmare in which both main characters seem to be always running through molasses, striving to complete an end-game that eventually pulls these disparate worlds together. The book is riveting, and is a terrific intellectual exercise for readers looking for a well-written and thought-out tale of how life could be in a world where technology has run rampant.

Buy Hard-boiled Wonderland now at the WoWasis eStore.