In the ancient cities area of Sri Lanka, on the road from Dambulla to Kandy, 3 km north of Matale, is Aluvihara, an undervisted and non-commercial shrine that we here at WoWasis feel is well worth a stop,

Aluvihara reminder: don't try this at home

We loved the Dambulla cave temples nearby, but the overt commercialism there we found to be disconcerting. Aluvihara, on the other hand, a bit off the beaten path, was a welcome respite, and a wonderful monument. Aluvihara consists primarily of several rock caves, the first containing a wonderful polychrome reclining Buddha, with magnificent lotus frescoes painted on the ceiling. The next cave contains frescoes depicting the horrors of hell, a series of tortures interestingly juxtaposed amid carved guardian statues. The last cave features torture sculptures. Finally, you can climb a few steps to a stupa overlooking the valley below.

The Buddhist view of hell is always interesting to see when depicted through art, whether it’s the elaborate wooden carvings you’ll find in Hanoi, or the frescoes of Aluvihara. What makes Aluvihara outstanding is that most of the time there are few tourists, and you’ll have it to yourself. The polychrome Buddha and guardian statutes are some of the finest we’ve seen.

Sri Lanka is still relatively little-visited due to the recent civil war, but promises to become more crowded with tour buses as time goes by.  Aluvihara is best seen now, when you’ll have the luxury of having it all to yourself.